Tuesday
October 26
1926

The transport returned to Head Camp early this morning. Shortly thereafter Dick and Jordans left for top side. The camp was virtually deserted. Van [Leeuwen], Matt and I with two soldiers and two convicts remain. Van has been very friendly since his return. He visits us quite regularly now and discusses everything. Matt and I visited the men folks in the village this morning and spent a couple of interesting hours. We learned that the women cut off their finger at the first joint when they marry and a man cuts his off when his wife dies. One man, the first we had seen with his finger off similar to the women, brought it to our attention, and after a lot of signs and discussion with Igoone we got the deft [sic] of it as related. They were very enthusiastic when we finally got the idea and a roar of laughter went up on all sides. We also visited in the women’s house. It is not a strictly men’s house and Women’s house for the women occasionally can be found in the men’s house but not often. The men also visit in the women’s house. A large bench or rack is contained in one end of the room near the fire which contains the fire wood. The entrance to the interior is not as good underfoot either for I slipped and fell through the rough boards which have been hewn out with stone axes. The entrance and general finish of the other house is better in all respects. Matt and I walked down the trail a short distance to the other garden and shot some pictures. It is an exceedingly pretty spot and will make a good place for movies. The mountain background is excellent and a level surface stage is available with a solid wall of rock in the background some fifty feet in height. Shortly after we had returned we experienced a distinct earthquake. The natives in the village set up their cry of whoo whoo whoo. Oompah was scared stiff as our lean[-]to rocked back and forth. It was not long though, it is the third one Matt says since he has been here, the first being the hardest. The pygmies noticed {F4.65} that Oompah and the soldiers were somewhat concerned and motioned that there was nothing to be uneasy about. They evidently are used to them, and they are of frequent occurance [sic]. They didn’t seem to have a name for them for we were unable to bring it out[;] they must have a name though for they name every small creket [sic, = cragged] ridge, mountain top and what not. About four[,] shortly after the women returned from the fields[,] they arrived in full force and Matt secured some good material. One was an arm ornament decorated with white cockadoo [sic] feathers. They bring their prized possessions one by one and the last is always the best. As we sat eating tonight the women and children sat around on the ground. They know fish despite the fact there are no fish anywhere near here. They will not eat it however, for some unknown reason but have a name for it. They call fish mino. We gave them some sugar which they thought was salt (muja) and when Igoone first tasted it he made a face which I thought was because he thought it was salt. Later, however, when he gave a small boy some he spat it out and made a bad face as if he had taken something sour. They do not know sugar and consequently the taste of sweets is distasteful to them. I gave a little girl a piece of chocolate (a generous offer on my part for it is a treasure here and we have but little left)[.] She bit into it and quickly spat it out making a face that showed plainly her distaste for chocolate. The baby started to cry and was promptly taken out of the bag and fed. We had received some milk and were putting it into our tea. One of them asked what it was[;] we gave him a taste and when he told them it was the same as from the women’s breasts[,] they all had to have a taste. Some liked it while others did not. The smaller children appreciated it while the older ones would not touch it at all. Then we informed them that it came from a large pig. They know nothing of cows. We were having quite a lot of fun experimenting with our various foods. {F4.66} Matt poured out a small drop or two of scotch. The chap refused it but one of the women stepped forward and tasted it. She registered satisfaction so I gave her a good shot of it and it made the tears come to her eyes. She smiled through it all though and said it was excellent. Some of my friends in the States would probably call this a waste of good scotch, but when I told her it was medicine (which it is, for that is the purpose for which it was brought) and that it would make her strong she was well pleased. I illustrated by lifting up one of the heavy tins a dozen times or more. Then I told one of the men who had turned it down previously to try and lift it but he couldn’t get it off the ground. He immediately wanted to sample it so I gave him a drop or two after he had pleaded for some time, during which I reminded him he had turned it down at first. It was amusing to see him illustrate why he wanted it now that it proved to be medicine to make one strong. The mantre [sic] of Van Leeuwen’s went through some acrobatic stunts and the pygmie[s] got a big kick out of it as did the rest of us. He is extremely funny. It was laughable to see the Papuans try to go through the stunts he did. They are not the least bit acrobatic and were clumsy which made it all the more laughable. They performed their antics until long after dark and we sat and watched them with much amusement. After dinner I visited with the soldiers in their leanto and learned that the view from the bivauc of Saleh was an excellent one. It is rather strenuous going and a trip which is full of hardships for there is no water and when it fails to rain up there the explorers have to squeeze water from the moist underground growth of moss ferns and from the moss and ferns on the trees. This gives a brown chocolate colored water which is not very tasty but better than none. The view of the snow mountains is excellent and one can see in all direction[s]. Many people are inside from the many villages which have been observed. {F4.67}