Tuesday
October 5th
1926

Papuans from village arrived before we were out of bed. Father of boy had [a] small pig which we bought and they killed. {F4.4} five cowries. [sic] Was good pig, also brought pot and sweet potatoes! Decided to leave one soldier and two carriers behind so they had pig. Old Papuan however wanted head and entrails. Then we departed with him with other soldiers and rest of carriers. After two hours climb up mountainside came to his village of several houses and he said he would get our pig and kill it for us. Dyaks and soldiers and convicts built our shelter in their midst at his suggestion and we told him we [would] stay. He agreed to bring people from vicinity. We sent back remainder of carriers with [a] note telling [of the] difficult trail here and sent back potatoes and pig. They will return in 2 days and with days rest should be here in 7 days with food. We have food for several days, but can get more from people. Spent day measuring people and shooting movies and stills. Half way up we can see mountains all above us, good view from here. They sure are isolated people[;] women folks do most of work. [Women] Raise tobacco[,] sugar cane, sweet potatoes and pigs. [The] Latter run in and out of houses at will. Women all carry small babies in large net bags slung over [the] tops of their heads. During day many came. Different types. Had some excellent bananas. Women, however, went into fields to work and returned at 4 loaded with potatoes and greens. Prepared their evening meal. Kids crying and pigs squealing and dogs howling. Heat stones over fire. Will kill pig tomorrow morning. Head man informed us for some reason or other. He was sure a salesman and was anxious that we stay here. Children when not in net bags ride legs straggled [sic, = straddled] over shoulders of women. Boy just brought in large bunch of bananas for which he got a cowrie. In the states one banana would cost 5 cents. We got 20,000 cowrie[s] for $40.00 – high cost of living – for they figure about 5 cowries to the cent. Women on return from fields began preparations for feast dinner in honor of the occasion, was interesting to watch. {F4.5} Men gathered the wood and broke it into firewood size by striking it against huge boulder. That[’]s [the] only part they played. Village had about 30 guests. Huge fire [was] built and large quantity of sweet potatoes placed in burning embers to bake. After wood had heated the stones[,] women then built circular fireless oven of huge palm leaves and with wooden fire tongs lifted hot rocks out of fire and wrapped them in leaves[,] placed them on bottom and then piled potatoe [sic] [and] greens on top and them [sic] came pig[’]s head and entrails we had given them in morning from pig we bought and they killed below. More greens on top and more hot stones with another layer of greens on top. The children assisted mothers and brought various articles to them as they called for them. Pigs and dogs ran around and they kicked and slapped them away. Older children 5 or 6 cared for babies as this proceeded. One pig (small) succeeded in grabbing potatoe[s] as they were brought out and being put in fire and ran schreeching [sic] delightfully away pursued by small boy with baby on his shoulders. Pig escaped with his loot however. Hot stones packed on top of all the layers and then leaves parked [sic] tightly all around and tied securely all around with a vine. Men sat around and watched with interest. The fireless cooker now began to steam and the cooking of the feast was on in earnest. The odor was not half bad, meantime potatoes [were] baking. About an hour [later, the] feast was ready, [and] we sat by and watched. Women and children ate first and a layer of stones and leaves were removed. Women and children brushing pigs and dogs away constantly, who also wanted to join in, picked out greens and pig entrails pushing them into their mouths in handfulls [sic]. Small children grabbed with the rest. When they had concluded[,] men ate and soon all alyers [sic, = layers] had disappeared. Pigs and dogs [were] always around and would run yelling and squealing away when kicked or slappedwhen [sic] too close to the food supply. They succeeded however, in getting something to eat {F4.6} of the remains. The feast over[,] the men lighted their pipes and cigarettes and sat around smoking in the fast fading twilite. Matt traded some after dinner. We had potatoes and greens and a piece of deng deng for our meal. The mountains around us were very pretty as the sun set. Women at dusk retired to a women’s house with children and men retired to men’s house. Laughed and talked far into the nite. Evidently talking over their trade operations. Women could be heard repeating something to children who repeated words slowly after them. Then all quiet for a time, until head man shouted something to wife in other house. She replied and after few minutes of conversation came out with a burning torch in her hand and stood in middle of camp. Head man spoke loud and earnestly for several minutes and she answered lai lai every now and then. Finally turned and disappeared into house with torch and all quiet. Rained late evening.