Tuesday
May [sic, = June] 8th
1926

We hadn’t had any rain for three days so we were surprised to find it not raining this morning when we awoke. There was a regular dense San Francisco Fog hanging over the Mamberamo, however, and it was impossible to see the other side of the river. Ithung [sic] over the river during our breakfast and lifted a short time afterwards. That was an indication of a good hot day and sure enough as soon as the sun could break through the clouds it was sultry and hot. Leroux prepared to go with Hans on his first trip this morning. He wants to see the country and to correct the map between here and Batavia camp. He will get a good idea of how things look in New Guinea from the air. We rigged him up with goggles and helmet and he climbed in. Captain Posthumus, Van Leeuwen and Lieut. Kortman [sic] were on hand to see him off. The motor started fairly easily and they were off. Due to the heat[,] the air had no lift to it and it took a longer run than usual to get off. They got off all right and were on their way. Leroux was all enthused over the trip and I hoped he would have a good one. It was also his birthday. He is 41 years {F1.69} old today. For that age he is a youngster for he is full of pep and energy. We are to help him drink a bottle of wine tonight when he returns. It was his first aeroplane ride and he will have the honor of being the first Dutchman to fly in Netherlands New Guinea as a passenger. That honor is coming to him for he has been our friend in need from the very start. We like him immensely. In about two hours, the plane appeared in its usual place and appeared its usual beauty. Five minutes or so later Leroux was on shore. Enthusiasm? You never saw such enthusiasm. He had had the greatest experience of his lifetime he said. He has been in the jungles, Boreno [sic], Sumatra, etc. for 18 years and has had come [sic, = some] experience. He could not praise Hans and the plane enough. It was fine riding in the aeroplane and he had seen many things from the air which the map of this part of New Guinea (supposed to be explored and known) did not show. He was greatly enthused over the plateau which did not show on the map and which the boys have been telling about in addition to several lakes. He has sketched all these things on the map he carried with him. He will be able to sell the others now on the aeroplane and he is the boy that can do it. It is badly needed for they know nothing of planes, their performances, etc., and are ignorant of what the boys are doing every time they take off here. Hans showed him the pile of food[,] two thousand and one hundred and ninety kilos which the plane had brought up there in four days. He looked at it and compared it with the food brought by hard labor over the rapids b[y] the Dyaks in their canoes. He glanced at it and said to Hoyte[,] “Now I know why you Americans feel as you do. It is great work.” He was speaking I believe, of the part we are playing in this expedition, which some of the Dutch Army men seem to think is not up to what they are doing or the government is furnishing. I have been arguing with him that it is worth something for strangers to {F1.70} come over to another man’s country and attempt to fly a plane over this unknown and unexplored region for the first time. I have asserted all along that the ability and the courage it takes to do that for the first time should be recognized and recognized in a big way. Pioneers are always given the worst of it when they should be given a large edge. I think he realizes it now especially when the plane is putting more food up there than the prows are in less time and with only two men. It was a good trip all around.

It rained in the afternoon and it continued up until four o’clock [–] too late to make another trip. This is the first time since the plane started transporting food to Batavia Camp that only one trip could be made. Two trips a day was the schedule since the start [on] Saturday. It was too bad for it would have been a fine record to keep up. They [sic, = The] boys have flown in the past when it was rather cloudy but they always got through. It was raining rather heavily when Hans landed with Leroux but there was no difficulty. It also rained on the trip several times. At five o’clock the first of the canoe transport returned. Dick was with them. They too, have made a sensational record in going to Batavia Camp and back in three days. It was faster, of course without the motor boats but three days is the record time and will stand for a long time to come, I believe. They worked the Dyaks to the limit and it is doubtful if human energy can make it any faster. The aeroplane is certainly making them step. Previous expedition[s] have taken from a month and a half to [sic, = at] the longest to six to eight days [at] the shortest. Posthumus made it up and back in six days with the motor boats, four days through the rapids, and now Jordans without the motor boats makes it through the rapids in two and a half days and the round trip in three days. That’s fast work. Dick had had some experiences coming back through the rapids. He obtained some good pictures, two hundred feet of moving pictures of the canoes coming down thirty miles or so over {F1.71} the rocks and everything in Eddy falls. It should be good screen stuff. He also proved himself to be the best trader of the lot by returning with a bow which he obtained from a Papuan for an empty tin in which he had some film. He also obtained some arrows later on. The Papuans, he said, hide in the jungles close to camp until long after the aeroplane has disappeared over the mountains and then come out very timid. He had a hard time to get in contact with them but finally did when he got his bow and arrows. The mosquitoes were very bad last night and he didn’t sleep a wink he said. One by one the Dyaks and their canoes pulled up to the landing. Anji[,] who was supposed to ride back in the aeroplane but didn’t because Jordans had no order on it, had Dick’s goggles on his head. He looked funny but proud as could be. The Dyaks appeared tired and they had every right to be. It was five thirty before all of the prows arrived and the camp was in a merry mood. The Dyaks add loads of color to camp life. When they are away things are not as interesting as they are when they are present.

Leroux was busy working on his new map and he is going to show it to us tomorrow when it is finished. He is a tireless worker and conscientious as can be. If the rest of the Dutch were like him everything would be find [sic, = fine] and dandy and this expedition would get far with its present personell [sic]. If Leroux was the leader of this expedition the fur would fly and we would be far inland for he is a man of action. It was too bad that we couldn’t ask that he be given the leadership instead of suggesting that Van Leeuwen take it when we were forced to take that stand, in order to get some co-operation. He would make a much better leader than Van Leeuwen and would be more fair. After dinner we adjourned to Leroux’[s] house to help him celebrate his birthday. He had a case of wine, some chocolate and cookies. The entire staff of the expedition, Captain Posthumus, {F1.72} Lieutenants Korteman, and Jordan [sic, = Jordans], Van Leeuwen, Leroux and we five Americans were present making eleven all told. It was one of the most enjoyable evenings we have spent in New Guinea. It was a unique experience and we will always remember it as long as we live. As is usual with the interesting evenings now and then it would have made a splendid picture. The wine flowed and everybody was in good spirits. Leroux played the Edison gramophone selecting our favorite pieces. We felt in the dancing mood. Someone had the idea it would be splendid to have the native soldiers play a tune on their native instruments and the Captain sent for them. They came all dressed up and sat outside the tent and started to play their favorite tunes. They were melodious and we enjoyed every piece. In order to give them a little more enthusiasm the Captain ordered the sergeant to bring out a bottle of Dutch Gin and give the boys a little oil to smooth out the rough spots. They did and the music improved tremendously. It is funny how the cup that cheers affects musicians and others. It wasn’t long until they were dancing and improvising songs to their tunes. They sang about the expedition[,] the Mamberamo, the return, their sweethearts and all of that. It would be interesting to understand everything they said. They also sang about the Captain. We had pieces of it translated to us by Leroux and Posthumus. Dr. Van Leeuwen’s mantrie [sic, = mantri (Malay)] danced and he was really funny. One piece impressed Matt very much. It was an original Porteguese [sic] tune that they have kept[,] for the Porteguese [sic] in the early days had most of the Dutch East Indies. The soldiers were Ambonese and we recognized the same tune that was played in the native village we visited out of Ambon that day we were the guest of the Governor of Ambon. It starts out Hurrah Hurrah, Chin Chin and would make a hit (the music) if written around an American song. It is similar to it “Aint gonna Rain no more” for many verses can be {F1.73} improvised to the music. Everybody had a good time. The sergeant who was in charge of the distribution of the gin passed it around from time to time and one could notice the affect [sic] immediately. Some of the players opened their mouths while he poured the gin down their throats as they played. Leroux is certainly a fine fellow and an excellent host. When we left it was with the feeling that if all of the members of the Dutch expedition were like Leroux we would be having a splendid time and no trouble at all. An exception must be made to this of course, Jordans, Hoffman and even Posthumus – if the army would let him – are all right. Korteman should be included in that also.

We got quite a bit of inside information today on the intrique [sic] that has been going on. It seems that the pet scheme of Van Leeuwen’s to get the leadership of the expedition in his hands is not making as big a hit in Java and with the Indian Committee as he thought it would. The telegram which he told Doc (he did not show it to him) said the committee agreed to his (Doc’s) request also contained a few other snappy comments. One was to the affect [sic] that there should be no trouble with the Americans. The Indiana [sic, = Indian] Committee evidently is on to him. It also said that the committee would agree to the leadership transfer but also said that the committee would put it up to the government to decide. So far the government has not decided and Matt is still the leader. Van Leeuwen’ [sic] didn’t mention anything about that. The telegram also asked if it wouldn’t be possible to continue the expedition six months longer and use the present Dyaks. Matt informed Van Leeuwen that he was anxious to return in December and offered the committee five thousand additional guilders to pay our share of the additional Dyaks. That was a good move. It will make a big impression on the committee and it is doubtful now if they will change the leadership. It might be that they {F1.74} took that stand from diplomatic reasons and it will never be known that Van Leeuwen is the leader for the government will not put its approval on it. That will be a good diplomatic thing to do and will save any international complications for the committee evidently are aware of the tricks Van Leeuwen is up to. He is turning out to be a fine bird. We also learned that he has sent a letter to the government and the Indian Committee criticizing Jordans and censoring them for sending “such a young inexperienced” officer on such an important expedition. The truth of the matter is that Jordans is a good officer and has been more than efficient. I can’t understand Van Leeuwen’s attitude. He is getting in bad all around and sooner or later will hang himself plenty. He is well twisted up with his own stuff now and it won’t be long, until the truth is known. It will serve him right. I even think that Posthumus is getting wise to him. Leroux told him what he thought of his actions in plain words and they had a little set[-]to. It[’]s a gay life. Matt gave Van Leeuwen the facts about 1 [sic] the plane and the other material to send. It was sent as far as we know. We have a copy.