"By Aeroplane to Pygmyland" Accounts of the 1926 Smithsonian-Dutch Expedition to New Guinea

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July 18, 1926 : Batavia Camp ; Mamberamo River ; Sebit Tribe ; Van der Willigen River


Sunday
July 18
1926

{FRAGMENT 2: July 18, 1926 through July 22, 1926}

{F2.1} It was a rainy morning but despite this we loaded the motor boat and canoes. It was too much load as usual and Leroux decided with his usual promptness that we would wait two hours while the Dyaks fixed the prow Basar [sic, = perahu besar (Malay, “large boat”)] so it could take care of the overflow. It rained heavily but the Dyaks doffed their civilized clothing and soon had the canoe somewhat water “tite”. They also placed braces in the bottom so the tins could rest higher in the canoe and be out of the water. With this finished we started once more. Of course we left the large supply of rice behind and this enabled us to take the five Dyaks and five soldiers whom we started with yesterday. It took considerable time to get started but finally [we] were on our way. The soldiers at B.C. [Batavia Camp] are certainly a worthless lot for they had to be made to help load the canoes and motor boat. Even their convicts could not be used for they were cooking for them. The Papuans from up the river sebit, five of them came for a visit [sic]. Prince certainly had gained their confidence and they liked him very much. Yes they had no bananas which was unfortunate for us. Matt and Prince worked with them for an hour or more while the Dyaks fixed the canoes and learned many words. They are practically the same type of people as visited A.C. [Albatross Camp] altho their tobacco boxes which they wear in their ears are more crudely designed. Fish hooks were their chief delite and Prince obtained for Matt a forehead ornament, a small net sack in which they keep their tobacco and things and a charm with a broken bit of glass attached to it. The boy who gave up the beaded head ornament and the bag and charm evidently had just reached the age when he is entitled to wear such things and it took considerable selling on the part of the others to get him to agree to part with his prizes. Later it came out that he evidently was the cause of a recent all nite celebration they had when they sang and carried on all nite according {F2.2} to Hans and Prince for he blushed to the ears when it was mentioned. They informed us that Prince and Hans were good but pointed to the soldiers – “Teda Bagoose [sic, = tidak bagus (Malay, “not good”)].” The soldiers not only do nothing but in addition antagonize the natives which makes the situation more difficult. Of course it is not their fault, for they have no interest in them and do not give them tobacco and rice. We are out now on the lake plain [–] the river is wide and low swampy land is on all sides. It is a gloomy Sunday for the weather is murky. We have the large prow alongside on the rite and are towing the two smaller canoes behind. As we passed the small hut of the Papuans[,] two boys came out and waved to us. B.C. was lost to site [sic] as we made the first bend and the sun made a feeble effort to come out thru the thick low hanging clouds. I am writing from the stern of the motor boat seated on a tin. Doc is on the other side. As we progress at the rate of about two miles an hour all one can see in all directions as we make the second large bend is jungle trees, here and there a swamp. The river twists and turns and almost meets itself at spots. The day is not warm for the sun is behind the clouds [–] that[’]s good for comfort. The engine noise hums a tune. Two Dyaks are busy making a fish line on the prow of the motor boat while the soldiers and a few convicts are seated comfortably in the large prow taking in the scenery. All the other Dyaks are in the smaller canoes behind. Leroux and Matt are looking at the map. It appears that this antiquated method of transportation is a poor example of Dutch efficiency in this day and age. The country and river from here on is excellent for flying and Leroux would be able to do more work on the card. Oh well, that[’]s that but it[’]s hard to forget that we are going along like this for seven or eight days when we could fly it in one hour and a quarter. A pair of pontoons, our kingdom for a pair of pontoons. About an hour out a Papuan prow with seven natives in it appeared in the middle of the stream. All were standing up. The {F2.3} soldiers reached for their guns to have them ready. They wanted to trade however, and we picked them up without stopping. They laughed over their ride and finally came up on the stern of the motor boat. They were eager to trade and Matt and Leroux obtained a good many bows[,] arrows, carved tobacco ear boxes, armlets, etc. We kept on going while the trading was being done[,] the three or four younger Papuans remaining in the prow and getting a thrill out of their “fast” ride of four miles an hour. One old chap who was profusely decorated sat in the bow and refused to come up and trade. Perhaps that[’]s why he has so much. Fish hooks, knives and old razor blades were most in demand. They were of the same tribe we visited with before leaving and were jolly folks. They have nothing except what they can make in their limited way and of course no metals. Of course they were willing to give anything to obtain them. They were about to depart when the ratan holding their prow came loose leaving three of them in the Dyak canoe. You should have heard the talk. The motor boat stopped and the look of their companions. [sic] We had a good laugh over the frightened look on their faces when it seemed as tho they were deserted. We chugged along slowly and at 3:30 arrived at a camp site used before so we decided to stop for the nite. Not much work as building a complete camp altho there was plenty at that. Camp established and that means beds and clambos up[;] we had a cup of coco[a] and as I sit and write waiting for dinner Dick shoots a bird from the bank. It was a peculiar sort of bird for it had webbed feet and was perched rather high in the tree. He also saw large pig tracks. It was to bed rite [sic] after eats for the mosquitoes were very, very bad. They buzzed all nite long. Slept well despite them and this morning only had one in the bed with me.




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