Tuesday
July 20
1926

Leroux and the others were astir early for he had decided it was best to make camp earlier instead of waiting until dark. The rain and the fact that we had to make anew [sic] camp coupled with our late arrival tended to make things a little rougher than necessary. We did not mind it tho as I said before. We surely had camped in a bird sanctuary or something for Dick had seen many birds. When he shot the crown pigeons there were at least thirty of them perched on the trees..[sic] In addition to this he saw large, extraordinarily large, cassowarie [sic] and pig tracks, so we were up with the moon and stars to break camp and get a good day[’]s start. The boy convicts had been up for sometime and had hot coffee and oatmeal in addition to our birds cooked. We packed and started off at 6:00. Everything was damp, wet rather, but we knew we would soon dry out in the warm sun. We were muddy for the rain of the evening had made a sloppy place of our camp. Ompah fried the crown pigeons. They were fat and nice. Dick had had him boil one and we had a big pail full of good soup. The river had risen about a meter during the nite and it was easier to load the boats so our get away was quick. We had our breakfast of oatmeal and coffee on the motor boat. It was good. We also had our “fried chicken” or trukey [sic], rice and good “chicken” soup to look forward to for lunch. So it was not so bad, even tho we were wet and muddy. The pigeons and soup which we sampled later “we couldn’t wait” were as fine eating as we ever had. No chicken or turkey could have done better. It was so good that all of us had a smack of it. If they are as numerous up stream and they are probably more numerous, we will be {F2.7} in fine “eats”. Doc liked the soup but does not care for fowl of any kind. He eats it tho. We made good speed and the sun came out and dried our clothes. The stream was much faster with the rising waters. We saw many birds. Kalongs, a bat like bird, flew over last evening in flocks. This morning [a] few strugglers [sic] evidently worn out from their night’s dissipation, for they were flying slowly and wing heavy, reminded us of the rounder half asleep on the early morning L train or cars. Hornbeeks, [sic, = Hornbills] Cockadoos [sic, = cockatoos], Parakeets, Beos, and many others. The Beos (Malay) Mr. Leroux informed us were good pets and were kept in Java. When you split their tongues they aught to talk. They must be covered tho he says for if they were to see blood when meat or fowl is being prepared they die immediately. We laughed and he said he had laughed also when he had first heard the story, but he vouched for the fact nevertheless. This is our third day out. Becker said last nite that if everything goes well we can reach Motor Camp in six days now. He expected to reach the Rouffaer River this evening but the rise in the river may make this impossible. There are many native villages along the Rouffaer and much game he says. It is also a better part of the country for we are out of the swamp and closer to the mountains. We had been under way about two hours when we spotted a crude looking canoe with two Papuans in it directly ahead of us. They were hanging on to a fallen tree in the river and waiting for us to approach. Becker said they had never come out before. As we drew closer to them we saw they were big, strong husky fellows. Both of them had arrows but no bows. They had a fire of two small logs burning in the stern of the canoe. It was a crude affair and was evidently hewn out with stone tools. It was just a shell with no sides to speak of, the paddle was unlike other paddles and they had only one. Instead of being flat it was more like a spoon. The lower part was cut out and the ridge very pronounced. (Doc description) They were eager to trade and hurriedly gave us their few possessions. One had a nose ornament uprite [sic] {F2.8} and horizontal thru his nose like those we had seen at Albatros Camp. We got arm bands, waist bands, tobacco ear ornaments for one knife. We couldn’t stay long, however, for if we stop we will not arrive at our destination. One could study and live with these people and learn many things for they have nothing and have had no contact to speak of with white men. Previous expeditions probably eager to get inside have done like we did, and then military men of course have not studied them. It would be interesting to live with these people. As we traded with the two in the boat others – all men – appeared on the bank. They had the same physics [sic, = physiques] and were much bigger and stronger than our Besino [sic, = Bisano] friends. They knew no Malay for the bird hunters do not get this far. One old chap with a huge beard stood on the side lines. They were good traders but when we refused and said “no” they immediately came across with the objects for they couldn’t help but show their eagerness at the small tin knife Leroux had in his hands. Metals and something they can use is what they want and they are as eager as can be. Dick shot some pictures of them trading with us. The prow and the old chap should prove to be good shots if the film is not ruined by the heat. Hope not. As we pulled away they clung alongside the motor boat and in their crude affair it was a rocky ride for them. The chap in the forward end of the canoe held the crude paddle between his big and little toe and held on with both hands. We got too fast for them however and they let go the Dyak canoes in the rear almost upsetting them as it did the other Papuan canoe yesterday. They certainly are not good when it comes to handling a canoe. (We also saw several rafts along the shore near sago palm groves previously). Before we got far they motioned for us to come back and shouted excitedly. Evidently they had something better to offer. We looked and sure enough they had bananas, green. They came running thru the jungles and for a used razor blade of Leroux’s and a pinch of tobacco from Becker and I we obtained six or {F2.9} seven bunches in addition to some sago. The sago is not very appetizing in appearance. It is hard and chalk like in color. Matt took one as a specimen. They were sorry to see us shove off but we continued never-the-less and left them standing on the shore waving. Others appeared by this time and we could see their house half hid in the jungle. We soon last “site” [sic, = lost sight] of them around a bend of the river. The scenery changed somewhat later on and we had a little change. The river became narrower thru a cut off and because of the higher water we pulled thru it. Dick stands on the prow forward with his gun as I write looking for crocks [sic] or birds. The sun beats down warm thru the canvas covering and the vibration and heat from the motor is oppressive. But the heat is warming our soup and pigeon so what[’]s the diff[erence]. We will have bagoose macan [sic, = bagus makan] this noon. Matt and Leroux are also writing. About two o’clock we came across two more Papuan villages. First we see a big sago grove and generally it discloses a few native houses. There were two canoes out to greet and trade with us so we stopped, to pick them up. It was the first time that these folks had come out also, Becker said and we could easily see that from their actions. We had a difficult time to get them to come alongside but finally induced them to grab ahold and we started on down the river with the canoe on our left. As one of them was alongside[,] Becker leaned over to get the canoe closer to the boat so it wouldn’t swing and the frightened native jumped overboard. They were eager to trade and we had no difficulty in obtaining all of their decorations. They wanted “saros” knives and the eagerness with which they stripped themselves of their bows and arrows and clothing demonstrated how badly they wanted knives. We obtained a good collection and shot some pictures. They, like the others[,] had sago[,] but we didn’t take any. They showed great surprise at this for sago is their chief food. For one empty Prince Albert tin, I obtained a bow and six arrows and for a knive [sic] I had one man stripped of[f] his forhead [sic] ornament of fresh water shell (stringed) in addition to all of his {F2.10} other decorations. They were plainly nervous and excited. Wanted to know if we were going to sleep up the river a bit. Their canoes were as crude as the others and so was the one paddle. They never seem to have more than one paddle but as they had a long pole we had no difficulty in getting their crude affair for one small knive [sic]. They also asked for cloth. These folks had no fire in their canoes. Another canoe with one man in itpulled [sic] along side on the right and Leroux and Matt traded with them. All Papuans smell bad but these take the prize of any we have come in contact with. They were from the Torakai tribe and like the others knew no Malay. They were slightly different especially in the ornaments they wore. One man always seems to be the leader of the bunch. For instance when I offered the Prince Albert tobacco tin for the bows and arrows and the chap I had been trading with hesitated haggling to get a knive [sic][,] the chap in the rear seat spoke quickly and sharply and the bow and arrows were mine. The temptation was too great. They appreciate it immensely afterbargaining [sic] with them if you give them a little pinch of tobacco for nothing. I have tried that and it always brings forthcoming articles quicker if that can be possible. We have left them far behind as I write. The motor hums with its accustomed monotony and the heat is intense. The Ambonese mechanic is pouring some Pennz Oil into the Motor as I sit with the Corona on my lap. Incidentally the Pennz Oil is good oil[,] the navy man says. It lasts longer and the motor starts easier. This motor which is a 12 horse power four cycle Kermath made in Detroit pulls the large canoe with 2,500 kilos and in addition tows two smaller prows with eight hundred kilos in each prow. The motorboat is also heavily laden with approximately 1,000 kilos. It pulls this load steadily from 6 or 7 in the morning all day against a four to five mile an hour current till 5 in the evening without a stop. Pennzoil is a good oil and is also doing good work in the motor boats beside the motor in the plane. {F2.11} Guy will be pleased to learn of this. When one considers the burning sun with the heat of the motor[,] the oil stands up well. They use a five gallon tin for seven days pulling the load and the number of hours I have explained above. It sure isn’t cold in this motor boat. Matt and Dick are taking a bath out on the stern of the motor boat. We bath[e], eat, ride and do everything but sleep as the motor chugs away. Ahead we can see a small range of mountains. The sky is very blue and the clouds high and fluffy white. We pass along [sic] mud flat upon which is spread a good sized crockadile [sic] and Dick takes a shot at him but misses. We see him splash quickly into the water leaving a long track behind him. As we make a turn in the river a cool wind hits us from the mountains. It is refreshing and blows some of burning motor heat out of the boat. It doesn’t last long however, and we have more heat. We are trying to make the Rouffaer river tonight so [we] continue on past the hour we had set for making camp, 3:30 – 4:00. We are close to the junction of the Van Daalen and Rouffaer river[s]. It is slow going because of the rising water at 5 o’clock we can see the two rivers ahead. The Van D[aalen] goes to our left while the Rouffaer continues on to the right. The Van Daalen is the route to swartz Valley and perhaps would be the best for us but who knows. Our plan is to go up the Rouffaer. We pick a good camp site at 5:00 and land just a short distance below our objective. It is a high spot but looks like we will have many mosquitoes. Camp is established in a hurry for it will soon be dark and it is impossible to eat with the mosquitoes eating you. They are troublesome pests outside of the malaria feature. As we are putting up our netting Papuans from a village a short distance up stream yell. We can hear them plainly and Becker says their village is not far off. sure enough in 5 minutes 7 or 8 of them appeared. They were little fellows and looked like Jews, while the others were very large. They were timid and nervous in a way but tried to act {F2.12} brave. Matt, Leroux and I traded with them and obtained a good collection. Like the others they wanted.knives.[sic] One in particular looked like a typical stock Yards large negroe [sic]. He was quieter than the others. The smaller ones jumped around and shouted excitedly. They were eager to trade their worldly possessions for small knives. They helped one another in unfastening their possessions and their eyes flashed as they came in possession of the coveted small knife. Matt was dickering with one over some bows and arrows and not wanting to give a knife for just the bow[,] insisted on more. This particular man was a born salesman for he demonstrated what a good bow it was. He pulled it taunt [sic] and showed its strength and fitting an arrow to it[,] pointed it out over the river. He illustrated how the arrow left the bow in the actual shooting and then dropped to the ground to demonstrate its death dealing power. It was enacted perfectly in the fading daylite and his pantomime was perfect. The others stood by and nodded approval. Matt finally got the bow and a few of the best arrows for the knife. Then Leroux caused a sensation by bringing out a large knife with a long handle and heavily built. Their eyes almost popped out of their heads and they babbled loud and long. Leroux demonstrated how easily it would chop a tree and they whistled as they all do when amazed. Leroux was not anxious to trade however, and they offered almost everything they had on. Off came the woven belt bands[,] arm ornaments, head ornaments [and] the bag they wear suspended over their shoulder or around their neck. One chap couldn’t get free from his stomick [sic] band and the others tugged on it while he went into all sorts of contortions. The knife was finally theirs and they were happy. The big fellow who was the head man evidently brandished it aloft and waved it rather close to Leroux’[s] head. They were not afraid now and demonstrated how it could be used on an enemy[,] all the while talking continuously among themselves. It is plainly evident their [sic] stage some of their actions to impress us with their bravery and courage. I am of the {F2.13} opinion they would be dangerous people to meet alone or with one, or two. Experience has demonstrated that they are not to be trusted. When they are outnumbered they are friendly. With the positions reversed I am sure it would be a different story. We continued trading and it grew dark. They would not part with their last bow and arrow for anything and pantomined the reason. They needed one bow and 2 or 3 arrows in case they were attacked by an enemy. As their camp was close by they probably wanted it for their own protection. Dick had gone hunting when we landed and returned at this time with a small pigeon. He had got[ten] lost for a moment but found his way back all rite [sic]. He had a good shot at a large crown pigeon again and had shot him, but he stayed up in the thick folliage [sic] of the tree. That[’]s too bad for it would have been another day of chicken and chicken soup. saleh came back with a large crown pigeon. It was an even larger one than Dick[’]s large one of yesterday. Dick reported seeing man foot prints, besides large game tracks. He thought he was close to a village and when he failed to hear the chop of the Dyaks[’] axes preparing camp he shouted but we didn’t hear him. He found his way back however. It is not a good habit for one to go alone hunting in these jungles for anything can happen. The Papuans had a canoe tied up to the bank a short distance up the river and much as they disliked to depart they illustrated their departure by lying [sic] their head[s] on their hands and bending over[,] meaning sleep. They would return in the morning. They did this four or five times but did not go for they wanted to get as much as they could while the opportunity was present. They asked for tobacco and when Saleh brought out a package from his bag and they saw matches and packages of tobacco they eyed it eagerly and I had the impression they were taking note of where the bag hung close to his tent. They had all along danced up and down and the big fellow waved his large knife while the one who had possession of the one bow and arrow fitted {F2.14} it and was trying its strength. We were not many persons on the spot for the soldiers and Dyaks were in various spots getting limbs and other materials to complete the camp. It looked as tho they were demonstrating how easily they could get the things they desired which we had in abundance to their way of living, so Dick got out his automatic and fired into the river to illustrate that we had fire arms. As his gun threw out a spray of fire in the darkness and the bullet threw up a spray of water near the log they shrinked [sic] away from it back of a tree. They were frightened and impressed nevertheless and we patted them on the back and reassured them we meant no harm. These folks were jolly folks. A smile and a friendly pat on their shoulder works wonders to gain their confidence. They couldn’t roll a cigarette very well but they had a trick way of smoking one. They would take a deep inhale of smoke into their lungs as is customary and then they made a sucking noise and drew their breath real deep. They were getting everything into their lungs they could on that one inhale and to insure its all getting there they inhaled again. After this they blew out the large volume of smoke thru their nose and smiled with satisfaction. They evidently hadn’t had tobacco for some time from the way they smoked it. It was pitch dark by this time and after illustrating as before they were going to go to their village and sleep and return tomorrow[,] they left after dancing and whooping a few times. The mosquitoes were plenty thick by this time and we had some hot coco[a] without sugar, a piece of Deng Deng with rice and to bed. The moon had come out and it was a love[ly] evening. Dick supervised the boys cooking the pigeon and reported from time to time on their progress. They had some trick way they wanted to cook it and we agreed. Matt had many mosquitoes in his clambo. I was more fortunate however and only had 2. As I lay in my cot I could look out over the river. It was a beautiful sight[,] the half moon throwing a good lite thruout the camp. Two soldiers {F2.15} were placed on guard for safety’s sake. They passed in front of our lean[-]to now and then and as one would stop and gaze out over the river with his rifle slung over his shoulder he presented a striking picture. One cannot tell what the Papuans would do. They have nothing and we have what to them is a fortune in one knife or one package of tobacco. They could not be blamed even if they did sneak in on us and attempt to steal that which makes them give up quickly their only possessions. With their primitive tools it must take considerable time and labor to make a bow and a number of arrows. As the sentry paced to and fro I lie [sic, = lay] awake drinking deeply of the view spread out before me. The jungle trees at the edge of camp swayed to and fro in the fantastic moonlite from a gentle breeze which had sprung up. It was refreshing for the evening had been hot. The murky black water of the Man [sic, = Van] der Willigen river looked sparkling clear and brite under the silver rays reflected on the water. A large tree close to shore and near the lean[-]to left standing threw off a gloomy shadow. saleh in a tent next to me was killing mosquitoes preparatory to going to sleep. The white top of the motor boat was just visible below the river bank. The two canoes with the crude canvass [sic] top was a funny looking site [sic] even at nite anchored behind the motor boat. All was quiet in camp. A candle in a square tin case flickered in the wind which was becoming stronger. The sky was comparatively clear in fact it was exceptionally clear for New Guinea but it seemed as the [sic, = though] rain was in the air. I fell asleep without any effort for it was nice and cool. I don’t know how long I was in the land of Nod when I awoke with a start for some unknown reason. I glanced out the side of the lean[-]to for I was in the end. The moon was still brite but away in the distance appeared a large space of blackness which was coming towards us. The wind had increased. I sensed someone close to me for some unaccountable reason. All was quiet. standing alert in the shadow of the large tree close to the shore was the sentry. His gun was pointed towards the jungle[.] {F2.16} Every nerve was alert and he was watching and listening keenly. I felt for my [.]38 which was at my head and waited. A crackling noise of sticks was plainly to be heard. I listened closely for a moment it was plain to be heard and was rather steady. I thot it was the wind blowing a dead branch back and forth. A Papuan approaching camp surely would not make so much noise. Just then I saw in the shadow of saleh’s tent and not five feet away from my cot[,] a man croched [sic] down. He was facing the guard also about five feet ahead of him. I took the revolver from the leather case and covered him while my eyes strained to see if he was a Papuan. He looked like one all croched [sic] down and it was plain to see he was watching the sentry closely. As my eyes became accustomed to the shadows I was not so sure it was a Papuan but who else could be watching the sentry. It would have been an easy matter for a native to slip from the jungle and pass thru the space between saleh’s tent and the end of our lean[-]to. I remembered that saleh’s large case of tobacco and matches had been hanging there and they had looked at it with covetous eyes. I couldn’t understand why a sentry would be croched [sic] down watching another guard. It must be a Papuan ready to get the soldier from behind unawares. I decided a waiting policy would be best and I lay their [sic] silently watching [as] the croched [sic] figure moved slowly and noiselessly and I saw a point that looked like and arrow just above his rite [sic] shoulder. I had just about decided to warn the quard [sic, = guard] of his peril and had my finger on the trigger in readiness for future events after I had done so, when the man spoke quietly in Malay to the quard [sic], but even after this in the shadow and croched [sic] in the position he was in it was hard to realize he wasn’t a Papuan. He was the other guard. I put my gun up and he crawled slowly to the sentry and joined him in the shadow of the tree. The noise which was causing their uneasiness continued but it was so regular I was certain it was the wind blowing a dead hanging branch or vine. They remained watching[,] their guns pointed in the direction of the noise in the {F2.17} jungle. After about five minutes of waiting one of them picked up a stick and threw it into the jungle and as the noise continued they too decided it was a vine or linb [sic] of a tree. They drew their sabres and advanced into the edge of the thicket and I could hear them slashing and cutting the vegetation. They returned and the noise ceased. Evidently they had called the corporal for he came up and after a few brief whispered words they departed. The soldiers evidently were on the alert and didn’t trust the Papuans either. The wind increased and the black clouds soon hid the moon from view. It was going to rain and rain hard. I reached out and got my puttees and coat which were hanging alongside my cot. It was cool and I drew my blankets closer to me. And then it rained. And how it rained. It came down in torrents and the wind splattered it into my face. I moved back slightly and was out of the worst of it. Then the canvas roll above me started to leak. It was old and cracked, but Becker has put our bedding canvas over it. It was not fastened or something for soon the drip, drip increased until a regular sprout [sic] was pouring down in the center of my bed. I took my water bottle and thot that I might has well take advantage of the running drinking water and filled it. In the meantime the water was coming thru in other places. I moved from side to side to escape it but it was raining so heavily outside and the canvas leaking so badly that I finally gave up the attempt to evade it. Then came the question of what to do. If I got up and fixed it with something I would be drenched and muddy besides. so I decided to keep as much of my anatomy dry and as much of the blanket dry as was humanly possible. The rain continued in torrents and I had several nice puddles in the bed for company. The woolen blanket on which I was sleeping soaked up a considerable amount but soon even that failed me and I was in water an inch or so deep. The soldiers passed at that moment and I had him [sic, = one of the soldiers] hand me the bedding canvas[s] and with a great deal of difficulty made him understand I wanted it placed {F2.18} above me on my netting. He finally got the idea and my faucets shut off[.] I drapped [sic] myself around the cot out of the water as much as possible and tried to go to sleep. Outside the sentries splashed around in the mud and rain. Several of the men in the middle of the lean[-]to made some sort of changes in their sleeping positions so I wasn[’]t the only one who was getting wet but I was willing to wager I was getting more than my particular share. The new arrangement worked splendidly but for a short time only. It was impossible for the soldier to get the canvas all the way back so it soon sagged over the middle and I felt it coming down the sides and over my feet at the foot of the cot. By this time I had not a dry spot on me[,] over or under me. Below me on the cot I had in the middle about 4 inches of water. It was very uncomfortable to be sure but one has to become accustomed to getting wet in New Guinea. When I swim tho I like to swim and when I sleep I prefer to do it dry when possible. I spent a very uncomfortable nite, didn[’]t sleep much naturally towards morning I got very cold and had the chills. Decided it best to get up and did. The sentries had built a fire under their part of the lean[-]to and I dried out as best I could. Finally the Dyaks began to stir with the coming of dawn and they built a good fire.