Sunday
August 1,
1926

We have been in New Guinea now for three months do-day [sic, = today]. It was a bad night for it rained heavily most of the time. We were dry under our tents, however, and it wasn’t so bad. The Dyaks had kept a strict vigil despite the rain but neither saw nor heard any Papuans. They are surely remarkable people. We had a hurried breakfast and broke camp. Our trip down stream was much faster than coming up but we still had many trees obstructing our way and the Dyaks had to work hard getting the prows over them. In several instances as coming up they literally lifted the heavily laden prows over the trees more than three feet out of the water. Once after Matt and leRoux’[s] prow had stopped and they were lifting it over a submerged log[,] the Dyaks in our prow hastily looked over the situation and decided to “shoot” over it. They paddled hard and almost made it but it stuck just beyond the middle where the greater portion of the load was centered. One of them[,] the second man and a fine physical specimen[,] leaped from the prow just as the forward end hit the log to lighten the load. He missed the log and fell into the water. It was a thrilling sight and would have made a splendid picture. They get loads of fun out of this sort of work and no matter how hard they have to work they laugh and make a sport out of it. They sure know their business when it comes to {F3.3} handling a canoe. The Papuans who have failed to put in an appearance so far this morning but who must be watching us from the banks must be getting a good thrill and an eyeful for they handle their prows very poorly and just pole them along slowly like a raft. The Papuan dug out tips very easily and it is a difficult task to stand up in one. They are also very heavy and loggy. The river is clear in spots again and we speed by several Papuan houses. There is no sign of people though and no response comes to our call of saro. I wonder what they think as they see us glide by swiftly[,] our prow heavily laden with their bows[,] arrows[,] bags[,] and material we collected upstream. We have a fine collection. As was the case coming up[,] they have every opportunity of picking us off from the jungle shore but we go along and see nor hear no one [sic, = anyone]. The scenic beauty of the river coming back is enjoyed as much as before. It certainly is a paradise. We pass another Papuan house set back in the jungle but no sign of life. We have now got[ten] by the hard section of the fallen trees and logs. It appeared coming down that in one or two instances the Papuans had felled an easy tree across the river to retard our progress for the Dyaks say these obstances [sic] were not encountered going up. It may be so and it may be that they have fallen of their own accord. They can’t stump the Dyaks, however, for they soon have it out of the way and we continue on. At 10:20 we sped past our first night’s camp site. Coming up it took us more than six hours to reach that spot and coming down we made it in three hours. About noon we approached the village which had raised so much commotion on our coming and which we took by surprise. The Dyaks as before paddled noiselessly and we glided up to it without a sound. There were two men in the house and as they saw we intended to land they took their bows and arrows and fled out the back and into the jungle. I did not see them leave but Dick did. They did not make a sound. LeRoux and Matt went ashore and called {F3.4} to them but they did not answer the magic word “saro”. They looked in both houses and selected a few things from the house such as bags[,] stone axes[,] and so forth and left large knives in return for them. I went ashore and brought them back to the canoes. A fire was burning in one of the clay hearths and they had evidently been preparing their noon meal. It consisted of breadfruit and sago. Leroux then sent Saleh and six Dyaks up the path into the jungle to see if the path into the jungle led back into the direction from whence we had came and also in the direction we were going. He wanted to establish the fact that the villages were connected. It was a dangerous assignment for the Papuans had fled down this very path. Saleh, however with Dick’s rifle and four Dyaks with their shields disappeared from sight and returned some fifteen minutes later on the other side and reported it ran through in both directions. It strengthens Leroux’[s] idea that the path runs from the Rouffaer river along this unknown river to the River D and the foothills of the mountains in the vicinity of Had [sic, = Head] Camp. We continued on after counting more than a dozen canoes in front of the village [where] we had just stopped. Every one kept a close watch on the jungle shores for we did not know how they would take our idea of trading without their being present. When they find the large knives, however, I am sure they will be pleased. It might be though that they were unaware that we left anything and that is likely to cause some trouble. We soon came to two more houses on a high bank. In front of this ten canoes were parked. It was the spot we had tried to trade with them but they fled into the jungle. We had left a small knife in the forward end of one of the prows. Matt and leRoux in their prow pulled up to the bank while Dick and I in our prow proceeded across the river so as not to scare them. They wanted knives badly enough but could not get up enough courage to come out and trade out for them. This time they appeared and motioned {F3.5} frightenly [sic] to leave another knife as before. We wouldn’t of course for that would not put us in contact with them or secure anything for our collection. Leroux and Matt went ashore as before and they fled into the jungle shouting and waving their bows and arrows at them as they advanced. They climbed up the bank and showed them the knives. It was a big temptation but they had fright registered all over their faces as they retreated as leroux and Matt advanced towards them. After about ten minutes of coaxing, Matt returned with an arm load of sago pounders, stone axes, crude wooden food bowls, bows and arrows, bags etc.[,] which they had induced them to part with. They had finally got[ten] up enough courage to trade. Only one, however, traded while the others stood behind and shouted nervously. Little by little they lost their fear to some extent and I went ashore with Dick’s camera to take some pictures. Matt had shot some with the Browne [sic] (two rolls)[.] Dick went in swimming and had a fine bath. The natives were frightened to death. That was plainly evident and they retreated when they saw me with the camera. I went about getting close to them slowly and in easy stages [to] go near enough to shoot some pictures. They were handing everything out of their house in exchange for a few red beads and mirrors. It was excellent material also. Matt and leroux were busy trading with them. As I pulled out the film I offered the paper to one of them and he came forward eagerly. It pleased him immensely for he got something for nothing. They did not like the click of the shutter and jumped nervously when it shot a picture. They would retreat a few steps and their eyes would bulge out. Matt wanted to see what was remaining in the house and after a great deal of loud and excited conversation amongst them they decided no. He climbed in anyway they [sic, = with them] protesting and pulling and pushing him out. leRoux had induced several of them away from the door with a knife. Matt came back with two large wooden food bowls which together for [sic, = with] a stone axe was [sic, = were] eagerly exchanged for a knife. They were totally {F3.6} different people than those we had traded with at our camp up stream. It was evident that [they] had not had any contact with white people before from their actions. Inside the house Matt reported were several good skulls, jawbones hanging from the ceiling. Some of them were charred from fire. It was too dangerous to attempt to trade for them, so we gave them a few parting beads and a pat or two on the shoulder and left. We had stopped about an hour. They were pleased with our leaving also for they were getting nervous again. It might have been that they thought they would have nothing left in their possession and our trade goods were too much of a temptation for them to resist. Anyway they motioned us away and we left. I wanted to get another picture so Matt presented them with a mirror box full of beads. They couldn’t understand this and motioned excitedly for us to be on our way. They had had enough and were anxious for us to go. We continued on and are about four hours from motor camp going down. It was six hours or more coming up including many stops. As we glide down with the stream we come back to the swampy shores lined with saw grass. Another Papuan house now and then breaks the monotony of the Dyaks[’] “Chunk chunk” but no people showed themselves and we continue on. The sun is out and it is very hot for the time is just a half hour afternoon [sic, = after noon] when it is the warmest. We progress rapidly for the Dyaks are paddling hard despite their hard work of this morning and yesterday. Ahead we see our friend the white herron [sic] who flew along with us as we came up stream. Like before he stops about a hundred yards ahead of us and fishes. His white feathers are spotless and he makes a good picture as he stands erect and alert against the green back ground of jungle. We pass another house on the left. Jack Cope[,] the Dyak in charge of our canoe whose eyes are constantly searching the shores on both sides as he paddles along {F3.7} says after a keen observation:

“Tampat Orang Matai” [sic, = tempat orang mati (Malay)] which means sleeping place for the dead. I couldn’t ask him why he knew that because of my limited knowledge of Malay but he saw something on that house or in it which gave him that opinion. I ask him how many matai orang [sic, = orang mati (Malay, “dead people”)] are resting there and he says “Barancallie, bonyock” [sic, = barangkali banyak (Malay, “perhaps many”)], which means “perhaps, maybe many.” Jack also calls my attention to tobacco which is being cultivated by the natives here and there in small clearings. They are paddling very swiftly as I write and the heavily laden prow fairly jumps out of the water. Anji who is not well (he has the fever and has had it for several days) is anxious to return. We are following them and it is they who are setting the pace. We go by the Papuan house where we stopped and ate our lunch the first day up so we are about 1½ hour[s] from Motor Camp now. The large Herron [sic] is still fishing ahead of us. He leaves when we get within 30 feet or so, flies a hundred yards and stops to fish again. We are going fast and are soon up with him and he takes off flying low over the water. It is too had [sic, = bad] it was impossible for us to take the movie camera with us for we sure would have had some interesting pictures. If we come back we should be able to get them rather easily now. A film of all of our adventures to date would be one worth seeing if it had been possible to get it all. We go by several more houses with prows tied to the bank in front of them. We stop at one on a high spot. Leroux and Matt go ashore and decide this is a good spot to stop over night in order to attempt to get contact with the people. We all go ashore and the Dyaks clear a space a few yards from the Papuan house and make camp for Matt and leRoux, Saleh and five Dyaks who are to remain with them for the night. We take this opportunity of having lunch. It is a beautiful spot but the people are not to be seen anywhere. All is still. The small camp – there will be only {F3.8} two europeans, one native mantrai [sic] and five Dyaks, eight people in all – is soon fixed and we wave goodbye to them. They want to demonstrate to the military men that exploration work can be done in New Guinea without soldiers and with just a few people. This demonstration will be a good one and on top of our trip which we are just completing should prove a strong argument that soldiers are unecessary [sic]. In fact we would have been better off without them for there would have been no shooting at Head Camp nor Motor Camp had it not been for the soldiers who do not know how to handle the people. They care less also. Matt and leRoux were certain that there was no danger in their stunt of camping in the Papuans[’] front yard so to speak. I didn’t think so either except that it was taking another additional chance which might spoil the affect [sic] of the entire trip should they have to shoot in case of trouble with the people. It was a long chance, however, they said and one worth taking for it would complete the argument entirely. On the other hand, I pointed out, if something did come up it would enable the army to say “I told you so” and that it couldn’t be done without soldiers or trouble would develop. If all goes well as it probably will it will be fine work. While they thought it was not a hazardous thing to do[,] it was for they are right among the people who have fled from the Rouffaer river in the vicinity of motor camp after being shot at by the soldiers. We followed them, found their hiding place and they fled again. Now one prow returns and they are left alone. There is no question that there are hundreds of natives gathered in this vicinity for there are many prows. One can never tell what these primitive people think or do and it is best never to trust them at all. Of course one shot from the rifle or revolver and they will all scatter into the jungle. That’s certain. The Dyaks evidently were anxious to return for they paddled swifter than ever and we sped downstream past several houses {F3.9} more and canoes, from time to time. No sign of people but they no doubt are watching us closely from the banks. I wonder what they think of the load of stone axes, bows and arrows etc. we have strewn all over our prow. They, of course, do not know that we traded and obtained them from the people upstream and obtained them with the peoples[’] consent and permission. They would not be to blame if they think we obtained them by force for they know the force of our rifles. It would be a logical thing for them to believe. The Dyaks are evidently of the same opinion for they say nothing and paddle hard and keep a close watch on the shores as we go by. Another village of four houses with 10 canoes parked in front is behind us and a short distance further on two more prows are seen tied to the banks close to a path leading into the jungle. The river becomes somewhat wider and we pass many patches of saw grass. We expect to make M.C. by five this evening. Twenty more minutes brings us to the spot where we had past [sic] through the narrow channel to get to the village on our first day out. As we sped by I noticed what a narrow passage it was and how easy it would have been for the natives to get everyone of us on that trip. We are not far from Motor Camp now. The Dyaks and we shouted saro as we went by but not a sound was heard. We paddled along and stopped once for some ratan which the Dyaks spotted in the jungle. They are quick to see that short of material and are on the alert for it always. It will be used for the prows, to tie them up to the shore or to pull them thru the rapids further on in the vicinity of Head Camp. They always have a stock ahead and consequently when something of that sort is needed they have it on hand. It was four thirty when we came to the mouth of our river and turned to the left on the larger one which flows into the Rouffaer. This river looked very broad to us after our four days of confinement on the narrow stream. It appeared as broad as the Mississippi. It is a {F3.10} strange feeling[,] this being hemmed in by the jungle; and it is very noticeable when get out, into the open again. On this river we had the swift current against us and the Dyaks poled hard close to shore. We passed several banana plantations and soon were on the Rouffaer and Motor Camp appeared across the water. The camp looked like the City of Chicago and the Rouffaer river which is very wide appeared as large as Lake Michigan. We were soon in camp. Everyone was on shore to greet us for we in our prow were two days overdue. They were evidently uneasy about our safety for they registered that on their faces as we approached. I sang “Hurrah Hurrah Chin Chin” and they all smiled. We explained that Leroux and Matt were going to sleep in the Papuans[’] front yard and try to stay a couple of days. They were impressed with that. It was good to get back in camp with all of the “comforts” of motor Camp. We enjoyed a bath before dinner and the evening spent in the mosquitoe [sic] room was like an evening in Batavia. A good dinner of rice deng deng, hard bread and tea and the pipe afterwards. Some folks would say that isn’t anything to brag about and that the comforts of motor camp are hardships, but to us tonight M.C. offers everything to us that Batavia could after our four trip[s] up the unknown and unexplored river. We have named it the Gentlemen of the Science River because it was explored by the “Gentlemen of the Science” without soldiers. No one had ever been up that river before and it was an interesting as well as thrilling trip. Our collection is the best we have obtained so far. It was a great success and full of thrills – real honest to goodness ones, from the start to the finish – and when Matt and Leroux return tomorrow it will be finished.