"By Aeroplane to Pygmyland" Accounts of the 1926 Smithsonian-Dutch Expedition to New Guinea

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Journal of Stanley Hedberg
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August 18, 1926 : Rouffaer River ; Motor Camp


Wednesday
August 18th,
1926

Left with transport of 6 canoes. Dick and I and Oompah with 4 Dyaks made [a] seventh prow. We will go up 2 or 3 hours to where Papuans are and then make camp and endeavor to trade with them. Passed all houses we had visited on our first trip and found them reoccupied. Papuans shouted at us as we paddled along. At one village [on the] other side of the river they came out with canoe about 7 men, but couldn’t get across river due to heavy stream. We continued on. Water high and current swift so progress is slow. Dyaks did not want to start today but Hoffman insisted. Previously planned [to] go down river but Doc said people above M.C. had returned and that [we] might try trading [with] them for they [were] eager to trade and wild about beads. After passing our 1st batch close to camp we did not see any more altho we saw many houses. Their goods were in the houses so they evidently were in hiding. At noon we stopped for lunch on an island alongside 2 Papuan houses. One was a large one and all enclosed with rough boards. I counted 12 clay hearts and many bags hanging from rafters. Also two sculls [sic] one rather fresh from appearance. The Dyaks get a thrill out of seeing the skulls of humans hanging from the rafters. They don[’]t like it for they think they are head hunters. Having been head hunters themselves a generation or so ago it is no wonder they are silent and look rather afraid when they learn of the heads being in the houses. As there were no Papuans there we continued expecting to run into the gang Matt spoke of trading with during a noon day stop for lunch on a sandbar. We reached it and the bar was almost submerged due to the high water. The Dyaks stopped and told us that was the place but there was no sign of a native so we continued on and made camp for the nite with the transport crew. We can either continue on or stay around here for a day and then go back to work with those closer to {F3.33} camp for it looked as tho they were willing to trade and not afraid. The Dyaks and soldiers say there is a large village not far from our camp. There are 11 houses but they were all deserted. There are 2 across the river and a few more down stream but a short distance. We are very comfortably fixed in camp for the Dyaks had worked hard and made camp earlier than usual.




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