"By Aeroplane to Pygmyland" Accounts of the 1926 Smithsonian-Dutch Expedition to New Guinea

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Journal of Stanley Hedberg
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August 20, 1926 : Rouffaer River ; Motor Camp


Friday
August 20
1926

While we were packing and getting ready to leave[,] 4 or 5 Papuans appeared on the bar about 500 yards above camp and shouted saro. It looked as tho they wanted to trade and so I got in the prow with 3 Dyaks and started up to see if they couldn’t be convinced we were friendly. As soon as we started almost they were off the bar and in the jungle. We went ashore and I held out a knife as an inducement for them to return. But no sound came from the direction in which they fled. After several attempts and using different tactics we returned to camp muddy and wet and no results. I can[’]t understand why they make overtures like they do and then flee when you come to them. We packed more food into the canoes and started down stream as Dr. Hoffman was having an inspection of the soldiers in camp. It will be easy going down but difficult coming back. The water was down to about normal height. We soon left the camp in the distance and in an hour or so were upon a village. We shouted {F3.35} and they answered in return but when we changed our course and pulled over to them they were quiet and the houses deserted when we pulled ashore. We could see 2 or 3 run into the jungle as we came close. So we continued on. About 15 minutes later we approached another village and shouted saro. They answered but we decided to go to the opposite shore on a gravel bank and see if we couldn’t induce them to come to us. We waved a knife in the air and 4 men in a prow poled across the river but landed farther down stream and came up slowly. They were very timid. They advanced slowly and I advanced slowly towards them. They stopped and retreated several times but the knife I held towards them would cause them to reconsider and to come again. Two stayed in the background while 2 carrying large sticks which they waved furiously talking all the while[,] advanced step by step. An old bearded chap was in the lead. We dicked [sic] step by step[,] they backward and I forward for some time until they were about 10 feet away, very nervous but their eyes gleamed at the site [sic] of the knife. During all this time[,] shouts of all sorts – advice – be careful from the wives – look out they are doing this or that in the canoe – don’t trust [‘]em – or choose your own we don’t know – floated across the river. [sic] Finally I got close enough to hand the knife to the bearded chap and he backed away. I had a banana in my hand and indicated that I would give him some beads for some. He understood and dispatched one of his friends in the background for some. In the meantime he lost his timidness and one or 2 others came up trembling. They were immediately at ease when we smiled. Dick got some pictures of the trading. I tried to get over the idea of stone axes and altho they recognized the one I improvised, they brot more bananas, sugar cane and some sort of palm. We stopped and ate lunch and visited. They would not come to where the Dyaks were camped. The noon day sun was hot and as they have no interest in the Papuans except disgust for them they rigged up a {F3.36} canvas shelter and sat under it. I finally got a few more ornaments[:] belt ratan, belts, bags and thot they might have more in the crude canoe anchored down stream. So I walked down[,] they following and protesting rather strenuously but I showed them the knife and smiled reassuringly and kept on. When I was half way I could see why they were anxious for 2 houses appeared and I recognized it as the spot where we had seen the women on the way up but had not stopped. As I approached more men ran into the jungle from various sides. There was nothing in the canoe so I offered beads to those who hid in the jungle and slowly one by one they came after seeing that the bearded man thot it safe. 2 small boys were in the group of about 8 or 10 and we sat on the sand. They were getting more at ease every minute and informed me that those who had been sent for the stone axes would be back and to wait. I tried to get a few words and they laughed bood [sic, = good] naturedly at my attempts to talk Papuan. One of the boys looked like and acted like Red at Albatros Camp. He was smart also and got an idea ahead of the rest of them. The Dyaks and Dick had loaded the prow and came down stream towards us. As the sight of them the newcomers in the party jumped up and started for the jungles but I reassured them and they stood a short distance away looking rather scared. Finally the prows and 2 of them came slowly across the stream and they shouted and pointed to them for they thot we were leaving. Five of them came up with bananas and 4 or 5 bunches of their bags, sugar cane and a fish net which one of them wore as a hat. There was no sign of a stone axe. The others left their bows and arrows behind when they left the prow. We gave them a huge knife for the entire lot for they had worked hard and gone a long distance to get the cane and bananas. They wanted to know if we were going to sleep down stream and we said yes. They waved a friendly goodbye as we left. After we made a bend in the river we saw the {F3.37} old bivauc we had made the last nite on our trip up to M.C. and as there were many houses and evidently the same people we decided to stop there for the nite to see more of them if possible. We had no sooner got[ten] ashore than a prow with 5 Papuans came down stream and we recognized our friends. They pulled in above us tho and after 2 hours have failed to put in their appearance. Directly across the river tho on an island are 2 houses and many people. As I sit and write many children are shouting and bathing in the river on the other side of the island. It is the 1st time we have seen Papuans bathe, but these are children and from their shouts and laughter they are enjoying their swim. Darkness brot out a full moon and many stars. At 10 o’clock we posted a Dyak guard and lites – candles set in 2 large water buckets – at either edge of camp and went to our Klambas [sic, = kelambu (Malay, “mosquito nets”)]. All was quiet during the nite. Of course it rained but we were dry.




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