"By Aeroplane to Pygmyland" Accounts of the 1926 Smithsonian-Dutch Expedition to New Guinea

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Journal of Stanley Hedberg
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August 23, 1926 : Rouffaer River


Monday
August 23
1926

We were up at the break of day and as we were having breakfast 5 Papuans from the other side came over in a prow and after a little yo howing back and forth came into camp. They wanted Saros and we traded them a small knife for an excellent head dress. They were not very friendly and always kept one arrow on the rite hand ready to fit in their bow. As we packed they were all eyes and look[ed] our things over to the most intimate detail. One even insisted on going into my pockets but I put a quick stop to that. They were the boldest of any we met. We thot we would go down stream a ways as it was a half day or more hard pull up to our camp where we wanted to stop yesterday. It was hard to decide what to do for if we went down we might miss the motor boat and our food. We finally decided to go on down and see how the river was and in hopes of seeing the motor transport and told the Papuans we were going down stream. About 5 minutes down we came upon the bivauc made by Hoffman on the last transport and as there were many bends and we could easily miss the motor if we took the wrong one, we decided to go back up as we approached the house of our friwnds [sic], which was behind the island[;] they were suspicious of our change of plans and two came out with their bows and arrows fitted. We motioned that we were going on up and as they appeared ready to shoot[,] paddled over to the opposite bank. All the time they were {F3.43} shouting excitedly and were certainly menacing. The current was swift and our progress was slow but when we passed the point of the island where one of their houses was situated they quieted down and after 20 minutes of heavy poling and paddling were out of their vicinity. It is going to be hard work getting back to our camp where we wanted to stop yesterday. The Dyaks say it will be about 6 hours. We came down in 1 hour. It will be the best thing to do however, for the people above will be easier to work with and do not want so much. They are more friendly and the limited amount of trade goods we have left will go farther. We had a hard time of it for the current was swift and our heavy load and only 4 Dyaks. Of course we helped paddle. Oompah and I however bailed water but it seeped in as fast as we could bail it out. The poling pushes the prow down some and it seeps thru where the side boards are attached. As we were struggling along close to a heavily wooded shore, we heard and later saw 2 Papuans concealed in the jungle. There evidently were more of them from the noise they made. They didn’t show any signs of wanting to trade so we kept on. In 2 hours and a half we arrived at our camp. It was just noon. We are not sure it is our camp of the next to the last nite we spent on the river going up. The water was low so the Dyaks had to build steps down to the canoe for unloading. After camp was established a prow with 7 or 8 Papuans appeared from down stream and we shouted at them. They poled across and landed below camp and 3 of them came thru the jungle to camp. We traded for about 2 hours, Dick getting some good movies. He had the beadd [sic] being manufactured by the camera and while it took some maneuvering and motioning of hands[,] they wanted the beads. When he ran out of film in one camera he had the other manufacture tabacco [sic]. (These people smoke) We traded one knife for they always insist on saro first. For one small bead we got arrows, bows and everything they {F3.44} had. We became very friendly and told them to come back tomorrow morning. They misunderstood us however, and just before dark were back this time with 8 of them in the canoe. All eight came to a portion of the jungle and the trading was fast and furious for some time. The newcomers were somewhat timid at first but soon they were the same as the others and entered into the trading for beads with the same enthusiasm as the rest. It was almost dusk when we first saw them on the river so it was impossible to get any pictures. I had promised them a saro but wanted them to return tomorrow but they misunderstood our signs and came at dusk. So I gave them a large knife and they eagerly parted with bows, arrows, tobacco boxes, head dress and what not in their eagerness to get it. When I handed it over they danced and shouted with joy and chopped away at trees in the vicinity. It didn’t last long however, for they dispatched one of their men to the canoe with it for safeties [sic] sake. I presume in case I should change my mind. Then they had more little things to trade for beads, and we traded. One older chap was holding on to a shell ornament and wanted a saro for each. When he saw it was not forthcoming he traded the shell ornament for 5 beads. It was now dark and we indicated we were going to sleep and told them to return tomorrow. In trying to get the idea over to them in the morning that we wanted to go over to their sago place and make pictures they had thot we wanted sago and brot several huge pieces of it [for] which we traded them beads. They call it fee. They left all in good spirits and say “Assai” when they want to go. They never leave until you not [sic, = nod] approval. I told them my name and they got some funny combination of Saeh out of it and as they poled across the river they shouted it back and forth for some time. It rained during the nite and our roof leaked a little. The Dyaks had failed to fix it as I told them in the afternoon. {F3.45}




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