"By Aeroplane to Pygmyland" Accounts of the 1926 Smithsonian-Dutch Expedition to New Guinea

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Journal of Stanley Hedberg
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August 24, 1926 : Rouffaer River


Tuesday
August 24
1926

At six this morning they appeared in the jungle behing [sic] us and we had to jump out of bed hurriedly and meet them. Only 2 appeared for they had shouted Toway and then they had not heard my answer [so] they felt uneasy I presume. The Dyaks had shouted saro several times but they left the other 5 downstream by the canoe. I explained that I hadn’t heard them because I was sleeping and from their actions and talk they understood. They didn’t have much to trade but I gave them beads for what they had. They informed me they were going up stream to make “fee” (sago) and we told them to come back at noon by pointing directly over head. They left but not before they had pointed to the shields which the Dyaks had placed on the top of the canvas to hold it down. They demonstrated their use and I nodded approval but assured them it was only in case they shoot at us when we are in the jungle or on the river. I don’t think they got the idea but a smile and a pat on the shoulder reassured them. They waited for a considerable time before they poled up stream and before they were in sight shouted their intentions. Their canoe was a large crude affair with an immense bout [sic] and their progress was slow because of its immense weight. As the y [sic, = they] approached the corner of our camp they again illustrated their purpose of going up stream to make fee and when we nodded approval they poled slowly in front of camp. They used two large bamboo poles – one forward and aft and the head man was in the middle splashing some water with his crude paddle. 2 had bows and arrows in readyness [sic] in case we should shoot while the others were seated with just their heads showing. When they saw we were agreeable to their going up stream they were more at ease altho one of the younger ones kept his head down all the time they were going by. Dick and the Dyaks cleared a good portion of the jungle back of us for pictures and I got out the trade material so we will be {F3.46} ready to make pictures when they return at noon. They poled up stream a short distance and then went across the river[,] the stream carrying them back to a point below our camp. We could see them poling along upstream for some time. Afterwards they announced their presence in our vicinity but didn’t anser [sic] to our calls. They are probably working above us or watching what we are doing close by. Then too they may be going up stream to get some more things to trade. We know not. The transport has been out of B.C. 5 days now and should be along today or tomorrow. It is a day or more behing [sic] now. It may be that we have missed it but I think not. This motor is not as good as the other one and it will take it much longer for with only 2 small prows behind on the last trip it had difficulty in keeping up with the other motor boat pulling the prow “basar” [sic, = prau besar (Malay, “big boat”)] and 3 small prows and the large one to two so it will not be able to make in the regular time, of 7 days. Then, too the river is very low and it will be impassable to go thru the cut offs in the river like we did with high water coming up. At about 10 o’clock we heard them shout again above us and when we answered they replied. Everything was in readiness and the spots fixed where they would be in focus. I was to do the trading there one machine (movie) the Ackley, was the bead making machine while the universal was the tobacco, producer as per yesterday. [sic] They are camera shy but eager for the beads and tobacco which Dick produces from the interior after considerable cranking. They stopped a short distance above camp and I motioned for them to come alongside our prow in front of camp. This was a question to be debated and for 2 or 3 minutes they argued back and forth among themselves on the advisability of doing so. They saw one of the cameras on the edge of the lean[-]to and the direction thru which they would have to pass if they came to camp thru the spot above {F3.47} so finally they poled down to us. Two of them, however, stood up with their bows and arrows in readiness. I went down the bank to our prow and urged them on holding out my hands to show them we meant no harm. The cameras, however, stationed at either end of camp held their eyes and they were on edge as they pulled along side. They had gone up and secured some more bows and arrows, tobacco boxes and several batches of sago which were wrapped in leaves. Only 2 would come ashore at first but when I showed them a brite sharp knife and walked into our clearing[,] the leader told the others to come up which they did. They were quick to notice the clearing Dick had made behind our leanto and were glancing around nervously. 4 went to the edge of the jungle and stood on guard with their bows and arrows ready to meed [sic] any hostile action on our part. We reassured them by the sign language and slapping our legs and bodies indicating it was done to help clear out the mosquitoes. That was all that was necessary and the trading began in earnest. I stood on the spot fixed by Dick and traded small p [sic] pieces of cloth, “Keebesso” and put it on them for the pictures. They were eager for the cloth and all but one came and sat down. The lone man stood off to one side with his bows and arrows. They had several bunches of bananas and wanted the knife for one of them[.] It was too early in the game so I had to ask Dick (who was supposed to own the knife) if it was all right and he said “no”. They added a paddle eagerly and when Dick said no again I went over to argue him into it. As we talked they stood by watching. Then I suggested they hold up the bananas so he could see what a large bunch it was and they did. Dick then said yes[,] cranking in the meantime. He got some good pictures and after each shot threw over the beads which they accepted with amazement. They didn’t like the looks of the movie camera but they did the beads. We sat and traded back and forth and they became more at ease. They were still {F3.48} suspicious tho and when a Dyak said he wanted one of their long bamboo poles and started towards their prow to show them they ran shouting in the jungle. It was some little task to get them back again but with the aid of one of our long poles I illustrated what was wanted and they brought one for which they received some beads. All was well again and four came back. I traded little bits of odds and ends with them and they started to get their names. That always puts them at ease and for a half hour or so I succeeded in getting about 30 words from them. When I divided up equally a batch of beads and told them it was for the words they were astonished and called excitedly to the others that everything was well. At this moment shouts of many natives came from down stream. At first they stood alert and listened. Then all but 2 departed into the jungle and listened again to the shouting coming from down river. They sure can glide noiselessly thru the jungle. They had left a good many arrows and bows there, and when the shouting commenced[,] grabbed them. We didn’t know what it was all about but thot it was another tribe coming up and probably we would see some action. They answered something once or twice and then asked “asai” and pointed to their village across the river. We nodded approval and they departed somewhat anxious. I thot maybe that as we were on the opposite side of the river we mite [sic] be on an enemy of theirs[’] territory. There [sic] got into their prow which they had taken to the usual landing place down stream and did considerable talking as they poled out in the river, they called to me “toway” and when I called the le ader [sic] by name he made a “bub bub bub” r r sound. At first we thot of an aeroplane but when he churned the water with his paddle and pointed downstream we knew they had been warned by the natives below of the approach of the motor boat[.] Their signal system of alarm is as quick as a telephone line for it is relayed up and down the river. We started packing immediately {F3.49} for we didn’t know whether it would be 10 minutes or 5 hours before the motor arrived. It was just 11:30. At 12:30 we heard the chug chug of the M.B. [motor boat] and in five minutes it appeared. Dick got some pictures. We shouted “saro” Saro” [sic] and the transport folks thot they were approaching another Papuan village. When they saw who we were they were pleased and stopped. In 15 minutes we were on our way[,] our canoe loaded[,] being towed with the 3 others behind. The large prow is alongside the M.B. Despite the fact that the motor boat makes only 2 or 3 miles an hour we felt like we were on an express after our hard 2½ hours paddle upstream the day before. Dot said the motor boat was leading [sic, = leaking] badly and part of the starter clutch had broken and that it had been a hard trip. This was their 6th day and we are at least 2½ days to M.C. by m[otor] from here. By prow it would be 6 or 7 days at least and hard work at that. After we shoved off[,] our Papuan friends across the river followed along shore for a considerable distance. We had told them we were going up with the M.B. Dot and “Singapore” who has the distinguished title of motorist[,] made some coffee and we had our luncheon on board. They also informed us they had our food from A.C. and we could see the time in the big prow. We also got a note from Prince. We are making fair time and it is very clear so we have an excellent view of the mountains. They had 4 soldiers and 10 convicts in addition to some Dyaks. Dot informed me he had trouble with the Papuans on his third night out. It was at the camp we had on our _____ night out at the junction of Van Daalen and Rouffaer river[s] and where they came and were anxious to know our intentions for we were camped close to their village. It was here that they were so excited and impressed with the large knife and also pantomined [sic] excellently for Doc how they acted when the plane flew over. Dot said he pulled up to that bivauc at 6:30 and while the soldiers {F3.50} were fixing camp, 2 canoes with 8 men each came over and insisted that they move on and not sleep there. Dot said they wouldn’t and they jumped around pulling on their bows and arrows[,] so to stop further action he shot his revolver in the air 4 times and they fled. They did not reappear in the morning. These same folks were exceedingly friendly when they ascertained we were friendly and even came back with more goods to trade before we left the next morning. It was here we had the soaking from the leaking roof and heavy rain, and were awakened by the horn of the M.B. coming down to tell of the shooting at H.C. and to send up reinforcements. I believe a transport or 2 has stopped there since ours did and as no one has any interest in trading with them or goods to trade with for that matter, they decided they would not let them camp on their land anymore. I gave Dot some beads to use when he is in camp so repetitions of a similar character will not accur [sic]. A few beads is [sic] all that is necessary to avoid trouble and he should have something like that. I told him to leave whatever he secured in that way at M.C. and Matt could divide it with Leroux for the collection. It will serve actual purpose. Dick has been searching the large prow and has discovered our food blicks [sic, = cans, from Dutch blik “can, tin”]. We progress very slowly. The river ahead is evidently rising for the stream is swift and drift wood of all descriptions. [sic] It is getting late and as we make a turn we stand still for about 15 minutes because the stream is so swift and our food too heavy for the wheezing, clanking 12 horsepower motor which is badly in need of repair. At one point we lost distance and were swept backwards. It was almost 5:30 when we sited [sic] the bivauc on the south side of the river. This section is very low and swampy and the camp site does not look attractive for the mud bank in front of it is not very high. As we land the man who jumped out with the rope sinks up to his knees in soft sticky black mud. Everything has been flooded {F3.51} and the camp is a mess. We go ashore and the Dyaks who have been eating their evening meal in the prow have our shelter up in a jiffy. We had just landed when Papuans in 3 prows ahead of us shout. They had a fire in one of their prows which we could see for some distance. To my surprise they shouted “Toway” which the Papuans at our camp of yesterday called us. It couldn’t be them so we awaited their arrival with considerable interest. They landed about 300 yards below us and came running thru the mud sinking up to their hips. I tried to walk out to them and sank up to my knees and had to be pulled out. It sure was sticky mud and I went out on a small tree and waited for them to come. To my surprise they were our friends of the sandbar – the big fellows who waded out in the water on our trip down. They knew what we wanted and called me Toway when they saw me sitting on the tree. They were all out of breath and excited as well. We got a head dress, shell ornaments, stone axes, bows, arrows, sago, sugar cane and what not. I gave them a large parang as I [had] promised them one on our return. They were tickled pink and as soon as it was in their possession shouted and danced in the mud as much as the mud permitted. They too dispatched a man with it and he tore thru the mud to the prows. I traded beads for the remainder of their possessions and also a small piece of cloth. It was easy to see how easily trouble can start on the transports at bivaucs when no one is able to trade with them. They have nothing and are eager for knives and the small things which they have seen and been given is the biggest event in their lives. It was almost dark and tho they were eager to remain and trade to their last bow and arrow they departed joyfully when we motioned we were thru. As they poled back up the river in their cumbersome prows they talked excitedly over their new possessions. We had We had [sic] spaghetti for dinner and after rice and deng deng we sure praised Mr. Heinz’[s] chef. As a desert [sic] we had sago with Java goula – {F3.52} a brown sugar made from the palms. It is similar to tapioca in some respects. The mosquitoes and mud were too much for us so we had our macon [sic, = makan (Malay, “eat”; or makanan “food”)] in our Klambos. Oompah our personal convict covered himself with glory by finding my pipe in the dark. It had dropped from my pocket while I was getting out of the mud and Papuan filth. As a reward I shared half of my chocolate bar with him. Twas the first sweets in months so it was a big reward but he had it coming. Two soldiers are on guard tonite and the Dyaks who have not stood guard for the last 2 nites when we were alone, asked if it was necessary tonite. Two days should bring us to M.C. if all goes well.




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