Friday
September 24
1926

I felt better when I arose in the early dawn but to clinch things I took five more pills. There was a big discussion as to whether it would be wise to go up in the prows. Anji was sick and the Dyak with the fever was slightly improved but needed Hoffman’s attention. After a good deal of discussion Anji decided that despite the fact that the river was high the Dyaks would attempt to go up by prow instead of by land but that the canoes not be loaded bery [sic] heavy do [sic] to the high water. So I departed with an extra tin or two over that which would have been possible by carrier. We started and it didn’t take long to see that the Dyaks knew what they were talking about when they said the river was dangerous when it was high. We proceeded slowly poling up the river, clinging to the side of cliffs in some places and pulling our way inch by inch. When it was possible to pole along it wasn’t so bad. The current in the middle was a raging torrent of water and the waves were high making it choppy along the sides. We shipped a good deal of water. The trip was a beautiful one[,] the river narrowing and going by at express speed. We passed many beautiful waterfalls on our way. At noon we stopped at a beautiful spot near a waterfall and had our lunch. The Dyak with the fever looked bad and Anji was frightened because of the high water. It was necessary to go from one side of the river to the other at times and when this was done it {F3.83} proved to be a thriller such as I have never experienced before. Some times it appeared as though a huge wave would engulf us but the Dyaks paddled with might and main after the nose of the prow was swung out into the current and we sailed across and down for a good distance before the other side was reached. There were five or six of these express speed crossings up to the time we stopped for lunch. The manner in which the Dyaks handle these dugout canoes in this rough water is remarkable. The current is about fifteen miles an hour and with the Dyaks paddling hard as they shoot across sideways the shore slips by very rapidly. As they approach the opposite shore the man in the rear slips the end around and as the prow comes in it appears as though the canoe and its load of passengers is about to be smashed against the rocks. The others however, are waiting eagerly and as soon as it is possible reach out and grab hold of overhanging limbs, vines, or whatever is in reach. Once on such a dash across the waves the only vegetation possible was a large limb of a tree which dropped down just barely in reach. Below was a large wall of solid rock with not a place for a hold of hand or long pole with an iron hook on it. The man in front saw the situation and leaped for the limb[;] he held it all right but the speed of the canoe was too great and it was impossible for him to keep his hold. He broke the speed of the boat and the end man slipped it around while others grabbed the limb and hung on with a death grip. If he had failed to reach the limb we sure would have a good bump along the rocks and probably gone down stream for a considerable distance if we had not smashed up. The Dyaks enjoy this sort of thrill and yell loudly as they paddle with all their might and main. When it is all over they all emit a long was [sic] hoop and start poling or pulling their way along. We were the first in line and after we had made the dangerous crossing the other Dyaks waited and looked while the other canoe attempted it. They were on hand in case anything should happen. During lunch Anji appeared {F3.84} nervous and said he didn’t like it for it was not entirely safe. He would rather fly in the aeroplane he said. It wasn’t as dangerous. He was nervous because he was ill and could not take part in the handling or the directing of the canoe I suppose. We shot a few more of equal sensations and were soon in head camp. It was about three in the afternoon. Head Camp is the most delightful camp of any camp we have had so far. It is situated with mountains on all sides with the rushing, raving Rouffaer River far below, a large island of solid rock witha [sic] few trees on it stands in the middle of the river at the point where head camp is located. The water churns and passes by with a loud roar. Waves are six to eight feet high. A small river enters the Rouffaer in the opposite side of Camp and another one of clear crystal water flows into it in front of the Camp. It is necessary to climb some hundred feet or more to a level spot on the side of the mountain before the camp site is reached. They had built steps and once on top the view was splendid. Below rushed the Rouffaer with its loud noisy growl twenty four hours long. The huge waves broke against the rocky island and splashed white spray in all directions. Immediately below one in front of camp came the quiet clean mountain river. Huge boulders and rocks of all sizes and descriptions could be seen plainly through the clear water. It was a swimming hole to behold. On the right the mountain rose steeply to a sharp edge. Ahead and behind one could see the ridges of the mountains. Dick, Posthumus, Van Leeuwen and Hoffman met us. They have built a large warehouse and several good palm thatched houses. Dick had occupied the one Matt and Leroux had when they were here and I joined him. It was comfortable. No flies, no mosquitoes and a [sic] few bugs of any king [sic, = kind]. This sure was heaven. The evenings were delightfully cool and the days were also not as warm as even below at lower H.C. A pleasant breeze fanned your face as one

{End of September 24th missing}