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Journal of Stanley Hedberg
Edited and annotated by Paul Michael Taylor
Asian Cultural History Program
National Museum of Natural History
Smithsonian Institution
Saturday May 22, 1926
{FRAGMENT 1: End of May 22, 1926 through June 29, 1926}
{F1.1} them the once over. Now they are building a huge bench along the same lines and idea. The Dyaks are quick to observe any good point and soon have it down pat. One of them is in love with the bit and brace and borrows it on every occasion. The others come to the workshop for one thing and another. They like to use modern tools. Dr. Van Leeuwen is all puffed up and struting [sic] around like the leader already, despite the fact that the reply from the Indian committee has not been received. It would be funny if they turned it down like Leroux thinks they might. That wouldn’t be so good though for it wouldn’t help us get into the interior of New Guinea and they will work and co-operate with him. With us it will be no help from the army[;] the little that is given will be because we will have to be after it all the time. Jodans [sic, = Jordans], Hoffman, and Korteman seem to be the only white men in this army outfit. Even the sergeants and the corporals are more courteous than the Captain. Two or [sic, = of] our boys layed [sic] down on the job this morning and were gone all morning long to get a handful of wood. Dick caught them loafing out in the woods. So this afternoon I had them bring up all of the heavy food stuff we had down in the warehouse and after that turned them over to Jordans and had him put them to work on helping unloading [sic] the ship. Our other boy and the one we have nicknamed Moon both are [sic, = are both] good workers. Will probably have to ditch the other two, for they are lazy and no good at all. The oil arrived on this second load of stuff and we have all of our material now on hand. Van Leeuwen has sixty thousand American papers to wrap up his specimens from the jungles. He puts paper around the leaves of the plants[,] puts them in a tin and then pours alcohol – good stuff too – all over them. There are many people in America who would think less of science if they knew about that. In America that would be sacreligious [sic] to wast[e] good alcohol in that manner. I have forgotten how many gallons of alcohol he has with him but it is a large amount. {F1.2}
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Sunday May 23rd 1926
Another Sunday I see by the day but it is just a plain ordinary day for us. As the Albatros was leaving early we were all up early and finished on some important letters we had to mail at the last minute. We are told now that the War Department wishes to see all movie and still film taken from the aid [sic, = air] in New Guinea. We have a letter which was just received before we left in Batavia but from our limited translation at the last minute we didn’t gather it to say that. Mr. Leroux informed us when we asked him about it that it was permission to take them. So we have written the American counsul [sic, = consul] where we left our valuable papers to furnish us with a literal translation of it. It is a funny thing that conditions imposed on us should be so strict especially when one of their own air men is at the present time in the U.S. learning everything he can about air service from our army. What good air pictures of Netherlands, New Guines [sic, = Guinea] would do our War Department is hard to see. They are a suspicious race on top of all the rest of their numerous faults. Dick took an early morning stroll and happened on Van Leeuwen and the army sergeatn [sic] looking at the radiator which the boys are repairing. They shook their heads sadly as though it was an awful mess this radiator which is off the ship and being fixed right this time by the boys themselves. I suppose they think that the ship will never fly again for they have no conception of things mechanical or air planes for that matter. They were highly worried when a twig went through the upper wing and made a small hole in it, which was easily repaired. The Dutch are weak sisters as a rule. Only one so far we have met has any guts at all and that is Leroux. He has a hard time however, for the others are trying to influence him that is [sic, = it] is risking death itself to ride in our plane. The old Ern if [sic, = is] far safer than the canoes in the rapids to anybody who has any sense of reasoning at all but they are so far behind the times [when] it comes {F1.3} to aviation here that they can’t see it. The army sure is jealous of the plane and will do everything in their power to hamper its activities. All of the army and navy men are drawing double pay for service in New Guinea so they naturally wouldn’t be in any hurry to get into the interior. They also get extra time for flying and the non-commissioned officers are anxious for some of that especially the radio men who want to go with the ship for radio purposes. The radio isn't worth a damn so it has been taken off so that the plane can carry a more useful load. It wouldn’t be of any use in case of a forced landing so what good it [sic, = is] it in the air when the plane is working all right. The answer is None – so it is off. The Albatros left and with her departure goes communication with the outside world for eight weeks unless some[thing] miraculous happens to the wireless sets. We have food for six months so we are all right on that side. How far up into the interior we will be when it returns is problematical. They are working on the canoes and the first transport should start quickly now. Of course the decision of the Indian committee might hold things up but I don’t see how they can get any reply with no radio. It is true that they can receive but that is not much of an accomplishment for many a kid in the U.S. builds his own radio set that can receive for many miles also. Wish we had one here with a loud speaker. It would surprise them for they know nothing about the advancement of radio either in line with their general lack of knowledge on what is progressing in world affairs. Today has been the only day since we have arrived in New Guinea that has seemed like Sunday. There was a Sunday atmosphere throughout the camp[;] for the first time no axes were heard and all was still. It was a typical Sunday summer afternoon and because it was so much like a Sunday in the states we had to have pinapple [sic] for our Sunday dinner. After dinner we sat around and talked of Florida and many things in general so it was a typical way to spend a Sunday. Hans and Prince {F1.4} however, were hanging around the motor work shop and the Dyaks came in fives to have their tins sodered [sic, = soldered]. When Matt and I went down there there were about six of them around and they were busy watching Prince and Hans doing the work. They are to keep their food and stuff in when they are on the transport. Anji was there too and got confidential as could be. We learned that Posthumus (the military captain) had tried to scare him also on the safety of the aeroplane. Anji knew my limitations in Malay so he illustrated with a chip from a log. He picked it up and imitated the plane taking off. Then he circled once and dropped the chip to the ground saying Captain Posthumus had told him that it would happen to him if he rode in the plane. Anji was not worried, however, for he asked if it would be possible for him to ride in the ship when it goes up again. It takes more than intrigue and jealousy to scare Anji especially as he says “The Americans are always working and doing things” [sic] “They can fly. All the Dutchmen do is drink paits, and sleep” and he illustrated it by tilting his head and taking a drink, and then laying his head on his hand and closing his eyes. It was funny to watch him illustrate it as he did. Anji is not so dumb as I have remarked before. Then he wanted to know what the American word for “Hotforduma” was and we told him “God Damn”. So he repeated it and added “The Blonde” which is the monicker the Dutcher [sic] are known by. The Dyaks evidently don’t seem to think much of them either. I can't say that I blame them much for that. Anji also illustrated to the boys earlier in the day the difference between the Dutchmen and the Americans and the Dyaks. the “Dutch” he said drink half a day and sleep the other half. The Americans work hard all day and he pointed to the boy’s tools and benches. The Dyaks chop chop all day and he illustrated that. It was funny the boys said. Anji also confided in us that Captain Posthumus had told him not to visit us in the evening. They are evidently jealous of the way the Dyaks have taken to us and are trying {F1.5} to discourage it. The boys have been fixing and loaning them tools and doing things for them and they appreciate it. They showed their appreciation by making our house fancier than any house in camp. They like to do work for us. We have also visited their house and they like that. We give them tobacco and empty tins also and that is appreciated. That latest underhand trick of Posthumus to discourage Anji and the Dyaks from riding in the plane and keeping him from visiting us is the smallest and most kid-like stunt of all they have pulled. It is unbelievable that a civilized race [such] as the Dutch proclaim to be could be so small. Of course, it is just a part of the army’s tricks to hinder the plane all they can. If we can get the Dyaks to ride in the plane with us – and they are all anxious to do that – we could go up to Splitsings Camp and bring ten Dyaks and get far into the interior before they get to Batavia Camp. We are certainly going to give Anji a ride at all costs one of these days and then there will be plenty of fun. They will try their best to prevent that if possible. Hans has just informed me of some more of the Dutchman’s nature which he learned on the boat when he was cruising around on the Fomalhaut. They all knew that he was Danish but had lived in America for some years. Every once in a while he said, from the captain down to the third engineer, they asked him how he liked America and Americans. Hans said fine. He was going back there to stay as soon as he finished this assignment. They said to him that they didn’t think Americans were polished enough and that they had no foundation but were always doing something sensational and then forgetting to finish it. They evidently don’t seem to think much of Americans. From their treatment accorded us so far that could be taken as a fact. Matt and I have been remarking that Wollaston must have had the same trouble with them for our experience thus far has learned us many things that we couldn’t read in between the lines {F1.6} of his book. Now we can see many little digs that were not clear to us then.
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Monday May 24 1926
We learned from the Dutch today that is [sic, = it] was the second day of Penticost [sic, = Pentecost] so it was another holiday and no work was done. They are great for celebrating holidays in the Indies (east) but it seems funny that they should be so religiously observed on an expedition to New Guinea when most of the expedition doesn’t ever know what day or date it is. Yesterday was the first one as it was Sunday we thought it was just the Sunday atmosphere that we noticed. However, to them Sunday isn’t important as the many holidays that are on the calendar. They have weeks in the year that have only one or two of the seven days in them that are not holidays and everything closes up tight as a drum. So today outside of the weather which was cloudy and [sic, = it] was another Sunday for us. The soldiers went hunting, and so did the Dyaks. The Dyaks brought back a pigeon, while the soldiers came back with a kangeroo [sic] similar to those of Australia. It was about normal in size. Friday the first transport starts up the river. Matt and Leroux are going away on a ten or fourteen day trip to the native village of our friendly Papuans which they failed to reach on their other attempt because of the distance. This time they will be taken up with the motor boat and they will camp with them for that length of time and then return when we send for them. In the meantime the transport will be on its way up to Batavia Camp. It is possible that Dick and I will go up with the canoes to bring them back and thus get an opportunity to take some pictures. They will live with them and study them for that length of time. This will be a good opportunity of learning more about them. They will also see their women folks. They are very afraid of [sic, = for] their women and are afraid that the men of this expedition will {F1.7} come there. They would never bring back [line missing] Matt both promised them that they would be the only two men who would visit them and they were satisfied. After they get accustomed to them they won’t mind if we come up. That ought to be an interesting trip. I forgot the [sic, = to] mention yesterday that I had my head closely clipped. It is much cooler although at first the flies bother one considerably. We all have our heads closely cropped now and present a funny appearance with our heavy beards. Matt took a picture of each of us and we will laugh at them many times when we get home I presume. Nearly everybody in camp is closely cropped except of course the Dutch members and the Captain. Lieuts. Jordans and Korteman, however, have adopted the New Guinea style of haircut. I presume it is too low brow for the others, just because the sergeants and corporals have also had the same thing done. It is the same thing as the corn question in Java. Just because the native eat corn (maize they call it) no self-respecting Dutchman will eat or serve corn in Java. They don’t know how good sugar corn is[,] I presume[,] or they wouldn’t give a damn who ate the corn. That’s one reason we couldn’t obtain any canned corn in Java. They don’t even serve it in the hotels there for the same reason. A little after noon, eight or nine Papuans arrived in two canoes. They were different folks than those who had visited us before but were similar in dress and actions. I thought they were a little more colorful for they had more beads and ornaments on them. Then too, more of them had on the flash stuff. They left two men in their canoes and also came ashore without their bows and arrows. They came down the river. The Captain of the Albatros had said that on this last trip he saw more natives than on the two previous trips[,] the falling of the river having brought them back to their camp sites which had been flooded when we came up. They must be from that bunch. Of course they wanted tobacco and food-{F1.8} stuff. Leroux, Dick and I shot some pictures of them after which we gave them tobacco but more sparingly than we had done with our first visitors. They had bananas and cocoanuts for exchange. One or two of them had the same kind of skin disease that the others had. One also had a huge knee cap and Dr. Hoffman said it was water on the knee. They also had the two thin bones stuck up straight through their noses and a cassorary [sic, = cassowary] bone through their nose sideways. One was rather old and appeared to be ruptured. As was the case with the others they had one old man and a small boy with them. Leroux and Doc visited with them and obtained a list of words. They are practically the same as the words of the other tribe although they have some slight difference[s]. They too, [sic] did not enunciate as well as the others did and it was hard to understand the words that they were telling. They have just come by now and they are standing staring at me as I write this. The others were very much interested also. The small boy is curiously [sic, = curious] as can be and smiles with the rest of them as I watch them and continue writing the touch system. They all carry their belongings in a small bag stretched over their shoulders. They have collected an assortment of tins (empty) and are quite proud of their possessions. Leroux asked them if they would stay with us tonight and some of them assented. Five, however, couldn’t and they passed down the river a short while ago on their way home. They are probably married and have to be home in time for dinner. The others must be single to be able to stay away from home all night if matrimony is the same in New Guinea as it is in the United States. I presume that it is. It would be interesting to see the women folks. So far we haven’t seen one native woman in New Guinea with the exception of course of Mano Kwari [sic, = Manokwari]. They smile and gaze as I write. It seems strange to them for they know not what it is. Their Malay is not extensive as the others so it is difficult to talk with them. {F1.9} There is a roar of laughter from alongside of our house wherein lives [sic] Captain and the other army men. I hasten to learn what it is all about and Dr. Hoffman has turned out to be a good commedian [sic]. He had a false face on and a skull cap and was dancing and prancing around going through all sorts of capers. They were frightened at first and all laughed heartily when he took it off. They also seemed to rest easier when they learned it was the Dr. Dr. Hoffman always informs them that he is a doctor and tells them that if they have any sick folks in their village to bring them to him and he will give them medical assistance. I believe that they soon will be taking advantage of this. The one chap who had water on the knee was brought forth but it was such that he couldn’t do anything for him without a long treatment. Other expeditions have given much valuable assistance from a medical standpoint and they know of that fact. It has started to rain again putting another R. in the daily weather report. It is full of R’s for no matter how nice the day is, it is very seldom that we don’t get some rain either late in the afternoon or during the evening. It was a beautiful evening last night and the coloring in the sky was really beautiful. The clouds were fluffy and white and the sun shone through them in spots with great affect [sic]. Later the red of the sunset was enough to give anybody a thrill. We have had but two such evenings and when one does come it is thoroughly enjoyed. The Papuans are having a good time visiting around the various parts of the camp. We gave two of them who stayed with us a while an empty sun[-]maid raisin box with a picture of a girl and grapes on it. It was brightly colored red and their eyes bulged out. The smaller boy liked it very much. Then Doc got out some hard candy. He took a piece himself and then told them that it was macon [sic, = makan (Malay)]. They took it rather scared but one of them {F1.10} tasted of it and sucked on it for all he was worth. They talked fast and the other one hastened to try it. Then they all came for a piece[,] for the news spread fast so there was nothing to do but give each one a piece. “Bagoose” [sic, = bagus (Malay)] which means good in Malay is what they said. Matches are in great demand. They even like matches more than tobacco. I gave one a few in an empty match box and he was pleased. I tried to ask them the name for my pipe but they had no such thing. I was blowing it out and it made a noise like it does when the empty tobacco grains stick and they all laughed. I then played it like a musical instrument and they got a kick out of that also. It doesn’t take much to amuse them. Matt then brought out some prints of the other Papuans which Dick had just finished printing. They recognized two of them – one was the old jew fellow who was so funny – and you should have heard them jabber. They mentioned the name but we couldn’t get it [–] it came so fast. They were much interested in the pictures and looked searchingly at those that they didn’t know. I thought that they were going to stay with us tonight but they just passed down stream in their canoe. I suppose that they are all married now. They probably have a long way to go and might get the dickens from their wives when they return late at that. Such is life even in New Guinea. The hunting must have been very good today for the army medical sergeant just came by the camp with another pigeon. The officers are having it for dinner for they commenced preparing it immediately. That is[,] their boys did. Don’t misunderstand me. They wouldn’t prepare anything or lift a hand to help themselves unless they were starving and I doubt it very much if they would do it then. Even our good friend Leroux who is very energenic [sic] and full of pep has to sit down on a chair and have two assistants hand him his photographic material when he takes pictures. I am glad I have the graflex and don’t need any assistance. It works {F1.11} much quicker also. The Papuans have left us. The sun is sinking in the west and is shining brilliantly on the tops of some extra large white storm clouds making it [sic, = them] fluffy and as creamy a lather as a Williams cream shaving [sic, = Williams’ Shaving Cream] advertisement. The convicts are busy cleaning up the front yard now that all the stumps are removed. The sizzling of grease in the frying pan from the cook shack of the Captains’ [sic] in front of our home and to the right makes a poor accompaniment to the Stars and Stripes forever which someone is playing on Mr. Leroux’s Edison gramophone. The sizzling of the grease reminds me that it is almost six and time to start with supper for Mr. Leroux is to dine with us tonight. Life in New Guinea is like life anyplace else – just one darn thing after another – but it is far more interesting and spectacular that’s certain.
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Tuesday May 25 1926
Breakfast is always ready when I get up now. That is[,] the boys have the oatmeal cooked and the tea boiled. I make the coffee in the percolator and get them to set the table. They have the breakfast duties down fine now but I think that it is because Moon[,] the convict Hans and Prince have working with them on the aeroplane[,] is present during the morning meal. He is a good boy. Things would be much easier in connection with the kitchen duties if I just had one more boy like Moon. It was a nice shunshiny [sic] day to begin with and Dick took some movies of Hans and Prince putting the radiator back on [See Film Selection #9]. It is sodered [sic, = soldered] all around now and they think that it would hold all right for they intend leaving off the cowling on the radiator and over the engine to do away with the vibration that always shakes it loose. The Dyaks were busy making a landing down to the river in front of the officers quarters and they decorated it all up with fancy do dads. It was colorful as could be and I shot some stills of it. It was supply day – it comes quickly although {F1.12} it is once in five days – so I had to sit down and see what I needed for the next five days in the line of food. The order was larger this time for Matt is leaving with Leroux tomorrow morning at seven and will visit the Papuans for about twelve or fourteen days. He needed some more supplies also for that trip. After dinner when the material arrived from the magazines Matt and I worked on packing it and just as we were finishing that it rained. And how it did rain. It was the heaviest one to date and it came down in torrents for about an hour. It is still raining as I write. We had our washing out on the line and it got a little damp before it all could be gathered in. We saw the storm coming down from over the mountains in the direction of the mountains for after lunch it started to cloud up a bit. We sure were pleased that we were in our comfortable quarters and not in the lean[-]to during that rain storm for it was a peach. Four of our visiting Papuans just came up. I don’t know how many came with them but they are the same folks that Matt and Leroux are going to visit tomorrow. The river is rising again, having gone up about a meter in two days. A meter is 36 inches [sic, = 39.37 inches]. It must have rained heavily up in the interior during the last few days to raise it that much. But we too have been having some rain almost every day. If it continues to rise it will make it rather difficult for the canoe transport through the rapids which starts Friday morning bright and early. The plane is way below the banks though as yet and it is difficult to get down to it for we have no landing down to it. No one has taken enough interest in it to even suggest that and we haven’t asked to have one built. It shows, however, their lack of interest in doing anything for us and for the plane. Everything for the plane had to be asked for and sometimes several times before it was forthcoming. That isn’t giving it a fair shake either. Yesterday while we were down to the motor shop hut we stopped a Dyak from cutting a tree down which would have fallen directly on it if {F1.13} he hadn’t been stopped. It sure would have wrecked matters entirely and brought the plane’s usefulness to a finish. I don’t know who instructed him to cut down that tree but they don’t do anything without being instructed. He had taken about three whacks at it with his axe and it wouldn’t have taken him long to had [sic, = have] it crashing down through the wings if we hadn’t stopped him. Just seems funny and strange, how that kind of thing happens. The pictures I got yesterday of the Papuans, Dick just informs me[,] turned out all right. I am glad of that. Hope those I took today will be likewise. The navy sergeant showed me the “dingus” (that is what a Dutchman calls a thing he doesn’t know the name of) that was putting the sending outfit on the bum. I think it was the condenser and it evidently had gotten wet and the plates of tinfoil[-]like substance were all coroated [sic]. There was more hunting done today by some soldiers and they brought back a crown pigeon. One of them also brought back a leach [sic] in one corner of his eye which was a nasty thing to bring back, I’ll say. Doc Hoffman succeeded in getting it out, however. The hospital is full now, Doc says and he is kept rather busy so we haven’t seen much of him the last few days. It is a good thing that they have been busy the last several days cutting deep trenches around the various houses and godowns for it helps carry the water away and helps to dry things up. It is a nasty place when it is wet. One good thing about the rain, however, is the fact that we secure a good supply of fresh rain water which helps a lot for the boys don’t have to carry it then. They don’t have to be told to put out the buckets either like they have to be told to do many other routine affairs which they should know by this time. Doc’s boy has improved since his punishment inflicted because of his loafing on the job and is doing real well as is also his companion who loafed with him. We put them to work unloading the ship most of the afternoon and it was hard work. {F1.14} It seems that none of them are enthusiastic over the cooking job so I have made my boy chief cook now for he has developed into rather a good boy on the stuff on the fire. We have been enjoying some good potatoes and friend [sic, = fried] onions the last several meals which we obtained from Korteman who received them from the ship. They sure go good and as they will not keep we are busy eating friend [sic] potatoes and onions every meal. If we had a nice slice of ham to go with them it would make an ideal breakfast. We did have bacon though that wasn’t so bad. We are living well through [sic, = though] for we have plenty to help out among the American canned foods that we brought along. The regular chow we receive from the magazines, however, is not a bit bad. We are getting to like the dry fish and the dry meat called "deng deng" [sic, = dendeng (Malay)] very well when it is fried in butter. I tried frying it in bacon drippings today for lunch and it was even better. Last evening Leroux had the Papuans who stayed with us all evening sing into the gramaphone. They did and he made a record of it which pleased them very much. When they talk they sure talk fast and it sounded funny coming out of the phonograph. They slept on matting in from [sic, = front] of Leroux’s house. Dick and I went up to visit the army short wave station at ten o’clock to see what results they were getting for they got all fixed up with a new aerial house and everything. Army sparks was busy tuning in. He has two assistants and it is funny to watch them work. They are clumsy as can be and have all ot [sic, = of] the instruments scattered about with none of them fastened to anything. He stands up while he sends. Hans says they are used to that in the army for if the Papuans were to attack they could take their set and run. It sure appears that way for nothing is fastened down[,] not even the key which jumps all over the board when he sends. He called and listened for Ambon but when we left at midnight he hadn’t been able to send a thing. He did hear one station and we listened to some one sending but we didn’t know who it was or where {F1.15} it was. The short wave length set is the best set and if they had some real live wireless bird working it they could get some results. The sergeant, however, depends on both of his natives to do everything but send. Sometimes he has one of them call his station at that. My mustache and beard is [sic, = are] just a month old today. It soon will need trimming.
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Wednesday May 26 1926
Everybody was up rather early this morning for Doc and Leroux were to start on their trip. Van Leeuwen also was going away for ten days, to collect plants inland and over the ridge from the camp. The Papuans were around “mooching” early. They were going back with Doc and Leroux. Six conaoes [sic] and two motor boats were being used for Leroux and Matt’s trip and the canoes were manned by 22 Dyaks. They had many convict carriers and it was quite a sight to see them pull away from the dock. They had supplies for fourteen days. Five soldiers will be with them when they stay at the native village and the rest of the transport will return for tomorrow or [the] day after they start on the first canoe transport to Batavia camp. Twelve prows will make that trip carrying as much food as they can. They will make three trips. The motor boats will go on the first. They will be the hardest to get through the rapids. On the third or fourth trip which will probably consume a month’s time the rest of us will go up and then straight on through. Batavia camp is not a healthy place so we are going to remain here until they move all of the supplies up there. Then we will go right on through. The river is still rising which will make the progress [of] the canoes and motor boats through the rapids more difficult. Hans and Prince are putting the finishing touches to the plane and it will be in readiness for another flight soon. When it will be used or just how is uncertain at this writing. Navy Sparks who has been renamed “Static” instead of {F1.16} “Hardboiled” succeeded in sending a message to Manlkwari [sic, = Manokwari] this morning and he says that his set is all right now. I hope so for there will soon be much news to send. We haven’t received any answer to our message to the Indian Committee yet but it is expected today. When we get into the interior I believe it will be difficult to get Army Sparks to send anything for us expecially [sic] to Manila for I think he has been told not to. I feel sure that he can [sic, = could] send to Manila if he would try. He was certain of it but since he mentioned the fact that he was going to try in fron[t] of Van Leeuwen, he has changed his attitude and now don’t [sic, = doesn’t] think he can do it. They don’t want us to have communication direct with U.S. connections for some reason or other. Probably afraid that we will get too much honor or glory or publicity or something and that is what sticks in their craw. It is quiet in camp as I write this for most everybody is away and when the cat is away the rats are sure to play. Most of the Dyaks are in the canoes so that doesn’t leave anybody here to work. Had a visit with Anji at his house last night and it was an interesting session. I had a great deal of difficulty in getting his sending [sic] but it is good practice to learn Malay although I am informed he doesn’t speak the highest class of Malay. Lieutenant Korteman[,] the supply officer[,] is a good fellow and he is going to teach me Malay and Dutch if I will teach him English. He has studied it in school but hasn’t had much practice talking it. He is very anxious to learn to speak good English and I am going to help him all I can. He has just informed me that a bottle of wine can be obtained from the magazine for 72 guilder cents. One Guilder is forty cents American money so you can figure out how cheap that is. It is good French wine also for Mr. Leroux has opened and treated us to a bottle of it. Imagine buying a large bottle of French wine for 72 guilder cents. That would be hard to take in America. Of course the cheapness of it is because {F1.17} the army or navy doesn’t have to pay any of the heavy duty which is imposed on all things alcoholic. Of course I have mentioned before I believe that there is Prohibition in New Guinea as far as the natives are concerned. It is the only place in Netherlands East Indies, I believe[,] where they have prohibition. Like in the states the natives who wish ti [sic, = to] either make it or get it from the bird hunters or others who are engaged in the illicit sale of spirits. The first canoe transport, I learn, will start Friday – that is the day after tomorrow. They sure are encroaching on our space for today they (the officers next to us) have their washing spread in front of our house for have [sic, = half] the length of it. I don’t know where we can hang ours for our cook shack and the Dyak statute [sic, = statue] takes up the other half of our space in front of our house. The current in the river has increased with the high water for as I sit and write it flows by rapidly. There are also many trees which have been undermined, floating by. Some of them coming [sic, = come] floating past in the most curious shapes and sizes. Some float by standing almost straight up. Then others are half submerged and a stray branch sticking up gives it a submarine and periscope affect. That is the only thing that is dangerous to taking off and landing on this river. Of course metal pontoons or metal hul [sic] of a boat would eliminate that danger immediately. Dick had very good results with his color plates of the Papuans and believes that he has it down now where he knows just how to work them in this climate. Our bird which Anji made for us floats majestically over our heads in the center of our pront [sic, = front] porch and swings back and forth whenever there is a slight breeze. He is some looking animal. The Papuans got quite a laugh when they saw it. Dick got the key of the radio from the set which was installed on the plane and obtained a wet battery from Sparks (navy) and rigged up a sending apparatus and he and I have been practicing all afternoon. It is loads of fun and it might come in handy in the interior. Ever[y]-{F1.18} body stopped and looked for they thought that we had rigged up a radio set of our own. Wish we had the material and we sure could do it and with a short wave set we could get Manila easy. Dick and I can both send and receive enough to get our message over. They copied Aneta press messages this morning and we had some of it translated this afternoon by Lieut. Korteman and Dr. Hoffman. There was an item in the news dispatches about Stirling and Hoyte’s flight into the interior. It was a long message for Aneta’s stuff to ships is rather short and I suppose that the cable to the A.P. New York on the flight was even longer. It was good stuff. We are anxious to learn how they played it up in America. It [sic, = I] hope big. We were glad to know that they got it anyway, for there was a long delay in communication from the time we arrived here May 1 to May 25. Dr. Hoffman visited with us for a couple of hours in the evening and we enjoyed it very much. It is rather lonesome with Matt away. It rained heavily in the afternoon and most of the evening.
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Thursday May 27 1926
The time and the days are going fast and it doens’t [sic] seem that we have been here almost a month now. I suppose that it is because we are all so busy doing things. It is hard to keep track of the days. If it wasn’t for the diary we wouldn’t know what day or date of the year it is. But it makes no difference what day or date it is here. What we are interested in is in getting into the interior and getting in contact with the pygmies. That will take a long long time by canoe for the river line is going to be the longest line they have ever had on any expedition. Both the wireless sets are working now for Army Sparks just came over and informed us that he got Java last night. The Navy set is working with Manokwari every morning. The noise of the motor generally wakes us up at six o’clock in the morning, now but that doesn’t make any difference to us for we are pleased that we have the radio communication. And besides it is time {F1.19} to get up then for the early morning hours are the best hours in the East Indies. It is the best working time. Lieutenant Korteman is busy getting the food and supplies ready for the transports which leave tomorrow. There is a good deal of work connected with that. When Leroux and Matt left yesterday it was necessary to have twenty or twenty[-]two convicts for carriers for just those two and the luggage they had selected for fourteen days. That is just an illustration of how many men are needed on an expedition of this kind when there is any overland carrying to be done. It is a difficult country to explore under the present system of exploration used by the Dutch and takes much time[,] money and men and effort. Aeroplanes would cut that down to half and make it easier and quicker. Hans was just remarking last night “If we only had another aeroplane. Oh Boy wouldn’t that be the berries.” It sure would. It will be the only way to explore this country the next time. Whether they will use aeroplanes on their next exploration trip is problematical. They surely should for it would save time and money. Perhaps they will when they see it demonstrated that it can be done. The Dyaks are busy putting the finishing touches on their canoes and they have been back and forth all morning borrowing the bit and brace to drill holes with and also the plane. It would facilitate matters considerably if those modern tools were part of the expedition’s equipment but the Dutch have evidently thought that the Dyaks were not capable of using modern tools. They surely are though and they have been using everything that we brought along. When they see it work just once they know how to use it and use it good. They sharpen the blade in the plane after using it also so that you could cut hair with it. They keep their own tools in tip top shape and when they use anything of ours they always sharpen it before returning it. The Dyaks are great people. I can’t help but remarking that time and time again. Sparks has been sending to me and at first it was difficult {F1.20} for me to get him for he makes his characters slow and holds on to them as they do in wireless in order to make them strong for distance. He can also send snappy but he says it is better to learn slow. I finally got so I could get some of it. A little practise [sic] every day and I hope to be able to get something if sent slowly. It is more fun to send than to receive for the other comes only after much work and practice going slow. Anji visited us last night and we had an interesting chat whith [sic] him. He informed us in low voice that the Captain was angry with the Dyaks for putting sideboards in our house and also for giving it all of the fancy decorations. Anji was going to decorate the walls on his own time with some red paint which we secured for him but the Captain said “Hutfor dumah” [sic]. That, he said, is why he hadn’t done it as he promised. He sure was peeved last night and he had reason to be. For some unknown reason Anji’s Dyaks numbering 39 (the other leader has 30) did not receive a canteen today as did the other Dyaks. He was all “het” up over it and I don’t blame him. It was Anji and his men who built Albatros camp in addition to clearing it off for they were here first. Here is what they did. Cleared the land, aided by the convicts but the amount of work they do you could put in your eye and have plenty room left, built all of the houses with the exception of Van Leeuwen’s[,] the motor house, the officers house framework[,] our framework and one warehouse. Then to be overlooked in that manner is not pleasant for them. I don’t know what Posthumus[’] idea was. He was anxious to know when Stirling and Leroux will return. He is about on the point of going back. It is a dangerous situation for the Dyaks are indispensable. I am sure that Leroux and Stirling can pacify them, however. I am surprised that Posthumus would make such a mistake for he has had plenty of experience in handling Dyaks in Boreno [sic] and knows their disposition. Perhaps {F1.21} he did it intentionally. The news received by radio today contained nothing of interest.
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Friday May 28 1926
There was a great deal of activity going on when the sun broke through the low hanging clouds and flooded our bedrooms with its warmth. Sparks was sending to Manokwari and the canoes were being loaded and manned. We were up to see them off. The first transport consisted of eleven canoes with five Dyaks to a canoe (in a few cases 7). Six soldiers and one sergeant and twenty convicts accompanied them. Captain Posthumus and Lieutenant Jordans were the first and second officers of the outfit. Anji leading his Dyaks and Tomalinda leading his were the navigators, and upon whom rested the real responsibility of getting the transport through the rapids. As the water is high it will be a difficult task. The two motor boats, loaded to capacity with gasoline[,] will leave at 10:30. The transport got away at 7:30 although they were scheduled to start at 6:30 or 7:00. They were soon out of sight around the bend towards Havic [sic, = Havik] Island[,] the canoes slipping noiselessly through the water making good progress against the stream for they hugged the shore as close as possible. It was the beginning of the long communication line which will be necessary to keep us supplied with food at Head Camp. Dick shot a picture of the departure. The camp now is almost deserted and all is guiet [sic, = quiet]. Lieutenant Korteman is in charge of the military portion of the camp during Posthumus[’] absence. Three Dyaks were left behind. Two were sick and one not strong enough to make the trip. We had seventy Dyaks to start with but have just 69 because we lost one who died with pneumonia. We heard Army sparks sending on his short wave set last night. There have been many messages sent since radio communication has been established. Of course no one knows {F1.22} their contents. We haven’t received any reply to our telegram to the Indian Committee as yet so we don’t know what the situation is as yet. It is time one was received one way or the other. It may be that it has been received and they are holding it until Stirling returns. Navy sparks informed me that if he received one for Stirling he would give it to me. I don’t know if the other sparks would do that. I think not. Am going to ask him if he has received anything for us later in the day. We had considerable fun just before dinner last night with the Army sparks. I have been sending on the set very studiously since Dick fixed it up and Sparks gave us the battery. As Army Sparks came by last evening I told him I was going to get San Francisco and Manilla [sic, = Manila] on this short wave set of mine. Navy sparks saw the joke and helped us out. While I was talking to Army and navy sparks, Dick slipped into the house and attached a wire from our bedroom window to the aerial and when he was finished I took Army sparks around and showed it to him. He believed I had a short wave set installed and you should have seen his eyes bulge out. Just then Posthumus and Jordans came by and saw the affair and heard me talking about sending to Manila and San Francisco and they passed on. Jordans was back in a minute asking Navy Sparks if it was true. He had evidently been sent down by Posthumus. Navy Sparks laughed and said “no”. We all got a good laugh out of it. They are worried about our desire to communicate with Manila. If we had a short wave set we sure could have some fun. If it were possible to obtain the parts we could set it up all right. The river appears to be rising. Many trees and logs are coming down with the stream. It is just twenty eight days since we arrived at Albatros Camp. Almost a month before the first transport started. They will make a night camp there and stop at the foot of the rapids today. The motor boats and canoes together {F1.23} will start through the rapids the first thing in the morning. From the looks of things early today it is going to be one of those warm days. It is ten o’clock and it hasn’t rained as yet. I have been keeping a weather report and out of the twenty[-]seven days it has rained all but one. The “candy” man was around with quinine last evening so we knew that it was Thursday again and another week had almost elapsed. Secured a case of wine from the magazine and had some for dinner. It was good and helped “tone” up the system. Also very cheap. Seventy two guilder cents for one large bottle. Everybody enjoyed it and it helped cheer things up considerable [sic]. Received a wireless dispatch from the Postmaster at Ambon which said: “Your letter May 4th delayed on steamer reaches me today Stop General postoffice Bandoeng decided you can send your press telegrams without payment charges will be collected on delivery at Weltevreden. Stop Wirelessed the military leader so on May 20th Stop don’t use blue forms. Postmaster.” It was a reply to my letter to him asking him why it was I had been censored for filing a news dispatch to Aneta on the forms he had furnished me and because I put an “S” on it as he instructed me to do. “S” means government message. The military leader Posthumus did not inform me of any such message being received. Why I don’t know[.] I surmise, however, that he didn’t want me to know that I was permitted to send news stuff over the radio. They surely are doing everything they can to keep me from sending anything at all but so far I have succeeded in sending anything I want and the way I want it. This will give me the proper authority now so when Posthumus comes back I’ll show it to him. There is nothing of importance to us to send now though. There will be however, when Matt and Leroux return. It has been a fine day all day and one of the first since May 17th during which we have had no rain in the daylight hours. We thought that it would be another one to list in the column without an R but {F1.24} after we retired at 11 o’clock it came down heavy and lulled us to sleep as the drops beat a tatoo [sic] on the adapt [sic, = atap (Malay)] roof over our heads.
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Sunday May 29 1926
It seems that yesterday’s habitual rain which was absent all day fell all of last night and early this morning. It was rainy [sic, = raining] heavy when we awoke and continued steadily all morning until about 11:30. At that time, however, it stopped although it was still cloudy and old Sol has not yet made its appearance as I write. We sat around all morning and watched it rain. Having nothing else to do Hans, Prince and I made it “pipe cleaning day” and the old Dunhills are sure throwing up a smoke screen all around as I wrote. It seems that a pipe tasts [sic] better on a rainy day and gives more enjoyment or a feeling or [sic, = of] contentment than on any other day. Dick worked on his attachment which he made for taking pictures from the air and finished up on it today. The river is still rising, having come up considerably during the night. The transport which intended to start through the rapids at daylight this morning will have a hard time of it I believe. However, high water is better for the motor boats. We learned that they had carried approximately 3,000 kilos in the 11 canoes[,] about 1500 of that being food and the rest gasoline and motor boat parts in the two motor boats. We heard army sparks sending late last evening but I haven’t seen him as yet today so consequently am unable to say whether he succeeded in conversing with Java or not. They have heard him in Java but not strong enough to establish communication. A Chicago Tribune would be an interesting thing to have with us today and any date from November 20 to the present date would be as interesting as todays’ fresh off the press. The news from Aneta received every morning at about 11:30 is very meager[,] most of it being of Dutch interest. Of course when anything startling occurs in America it comes thru briefly. There has been {F1.25} no American news for several days. Dr. Hoffman visited us last evening for a time just before supper. Some one of the convicts had stolen one of his surgical knives and he is having the entire camp searched for it. To no avail, however, for it has failed to appear. He said he would give twenty good wacks [sic] with the ratan himself if he caught the man who stole it for he needs it in his work. He is up at 6:30 every morning and is busy until nine with his patients. He has nine cases in the hospital at the present time and they all keep him plenty busy. Most of them are convicts. One Dyak cut himself with his knife, another has the fever and the other one is too old and weak to do much on the transport so he was left behind. It is a lazy cloudy day and not much to do so the time passes slowly. I have written an article for Popular Mechanics on the “Mechanical Woodsman of Boreno [sic]” which I am going to send Webber on the next steamer. Will have some good pictures to illustrate it and it should be interesting. Larry wanted feature stuff and the Dyaks are good feature material. About three o’clock in the afternoon, Hans, Prince and I with Moon, the convict, secured a Dyak canoe and started paddling up the swift stream just “for fun”. It wasn’t fun after a few minutes for it was work and hard work to propell [sic] that log through the water. We progressed all right up past the camp and then decided that we would go to the end of Havic [sic] Island and float down around it and back to camp [sic]. We were about an hour and a half going about a mile. In some places the current was so swift that paddling with all the strength we four had we lost ground. We stock [sic, = stuck] closer to shore and by exerting ourselves and pulling our way whenever we could get a hold of a branch or stump we finally succeeded in getting to the end of the island. We stopped three or four times on the way, however, to rest. Once we ran aground on a huge log and Moon {F1.26} had a hard time shoving her off. When Moon saw us starting out in the canoe he came running up and asked permission to accompany us. Before he was half way to the island he was talking to himself and I bet he won’t be so anxious to go canoeing again. Coming down stream it was the berries and it didn’t take us ten minutes at the most to negotiate that distance. Personally I was well tuckered out. Pushing a heavy canoe up stream is certainly not the best way to get into the interior of this country. The Dyaks of course are skilled in handling them but even they are forced to put their “all” into getting the canoes inside. It struck us more forcefully than ever before that the Dutch should use such obsolete methods in this day and age of flying machines and modern inventions. There is no doubt of the practicability and the efficiency of an aeroplane over canoe transport. It is not only the most practical but the safest as well. It would be as if we were using stage coaches and pack mules over the mountains in the United States. In this day and age it is a wonder to all of us that the Dutch have never used an aeroplane in exploration work in New Guinea. The two flights Hans and Matt have made have more than demonstrated that it can be dome [sic, = done] and done safely. Of course, one needs a good machine and a good pilot. We have both. What this expedition needs is more aeroplanes and it would be a matter of but a few weeks until the entire expedition, food and supplies, would be at Head Camp. It would be safer than the canoe transport, and quicker by months. Still when we arrived in Java we heard that we were crazy to even think of using an aeroplane in Dutch New Guinea. I hope that we have demonstrated to them that it is feasable [sic] and that they will try it on their next expedition. In that manner it wouldn’t take long to explore all of the remaining territory which is unknown in the interior[.] Under the present system, however, it will take many years and much men and money. Money spent as they have been spending it in the last {F1.27} several expeditions[,] if put into aeroplanes[,] would do it much more quickly and they would save money in the long run. However, we are the pioneers and the pioneers are always the ones to be critizied [sic] and to work hard for the benefit of the others who are to follow. It was ever thus in everything that has been done for the first time. It cleared up slightly during the afternoon, but only slightly for the sun just barely peeped through the clouds and then for a moment or two. It rained again in the evening. We are wondering how Doc and Leroux are getting along with their visit to the Papuans with all this rain. They took their tents with them, but I am fearful that this heavy rain is not making their stay any too pleasant. It is also going to hamper the work of the transport up the rapids. We wondered how far they had got [sic]. After our experience in the canoe we wouldn’t wonder if they hadn’t got [sic] far.
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Sunday May 30 1926
“Come and get it while it is hot” the meal cry which we have taught to one of the convicts is what woke me up this morning. It was another Sunday but the last two days with little or no activity has [sic, = have] been like Sundays. However, this was a real Sunday so it had to be observed. There are no churches within canoe or walking distance so we had to pass up services as we have in the past. It was a nice sunny Sunday until about four o’clock when it started to rain and to rain heavily. It is still coming down as I write. Another R in the weather history column. It is nearly the end of the month. Today was magazine day or shopping day despite the fact that it was Sunday so I ordered our five day supplies. Dick and Prince went hunting after dinner. They located a good hunting spot for they saw many cassoraries [sic], and pig tracks. Had two shots but they were too far away to get the birds. Dick was in listening to Australian {F1.28} music and news in the navy radio station last night. He said it was coming in rather well. We shall all attend tonight if the rain lets up. From the looks of things now though reception will not be the best. Being Sunday we later learned that there would be no music. Tomorrow night will be the night. As we were eating supper, Lieut. Kortman [sic, = Korteman], the supply officer, who is in charge of the camp military while Captain Posthumus is away, and Dr. Hoffman came in. They wanted to know if and when we had done any shooting and where for one of the soldiers who had departed for a hunting trip at eight o’clock in the morning had not returned and it was after seven and dark. It was also raining. Dick and Prince told them that they had shot twice about four o’clock and over towards the right. We, Hans and I[,] had heard both shots. The soldiers had gone off towards the left. A searching party was immediately sent out and Korteman and Hoffman joined them. It was raining heavily and of course the jungle was black. They searched all around the camp and fired many shots but no return shot was heard. They were still out when we retired. I fell asleep quickly and had been asleep some time when I heard a call. It came from the jungle searching party and it was a weird noise. The echo came back rather faintly and then a ghastly silence. No answer. They continued to call far into the night and I felt sorry for the poor soldier who had not returned. The jungle in the day time is bad enough to get lost in but at night with it raining heavily was no place for one to be alone. He had gone out with another soldier and had become separated from him early in the morning. The other soldier returned at 11:30. Dr. Hoffman says that the man had the reputation of being a little bit queer. I went to sleep after some time with that weird call and the resounding echo ringing in my ears and wondered how he would stand the night in the jungle if he had not met with an accident. If he had met with an accident – The Papuans are said to be not so friendly on the side of the river where our camp is located – {F1.29} it wouldn’t be so nice for it will be some time before he can be found in this thick jungle. And it is so large.
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Monday May 31 1926
We were up early this morning and eager to learn if the soldier had returned or had been found. He had not, although the searching parties hunted until long after midnight in the rain. Dr. Hoffman took Billy the camp mascot with him. The soldier who had accompanied the lost one led them to the spot where they had separated and they searched in the dark for tracks without results. Five brigades of four men each were sent out at daybreak and they scattered all through the jungle in an effort to locate him. They also fired many shots but still no response was heard. He evidently has been attacked by the Papuans when they found him alone or he has fallen over one of the ridges and lies dead at the bottom. He couldn’t have wandered so far away in a day that he couldn’t hear the shots. If he had been lost he would have started campward [sic] at the break of dawn and he surely could hear the shooting and the shouting of last night. He is a goner I am certain. On top of that we learned that two convicts had escaped last night and had evidently taken a canoe with them for the canoe was missing from its mooring place. The Dyaks who remain – three of them – said that the canoe was there last night at eleven o’clock. The convicts had received their five day food supply yesterday and it was a good day or evening I should say for a getaway as it was rainy [sic] heavy and everybody was interested in the search for the missing soldier. A guard is on duty every minute of the day and night down near the warehouse and the boat landing but they evidently had got [sic] by them. Things are developing rapidly after a few days of nothing of interest with Matt, Leroux and Van Leeuwen away in addition to Posthumus and Jordans with the transport. There are many clews [sic, = clues] that could be enlarged upon but {F1.30} one guess is about as good as another as to what happened to the soldier and the convict getaway. The convicts won’t be able to go far or get any place. Their five days[’] food with what ever they could steal or conserve will not last them long in this country and when they get down to the mouth of the river they are a long ways from civilization or villages or anything. In addition to this the Papuans will get them too if they are not careful. They had bitten off more than they could chew. Both of them were long term convicts. Dr. Hoffman was telling us that in Boreno [sic] some 20 years ago when a military expedition was exploring that country and using convicts for carriers abd [sic, = and] laborers two of them escaped into the jungles one night. The commanding officer informed the Dyaks about their escape and told them all he wanted back was their heads. The Dayks [sic] were anxious to grant such a request for head hunting used to be their favorite sport and still is to some extent in some sections of Boreno [sic]. In two days they returned with the heads of the escaped convicts which were exhibited to the others. No more tried to escape after that, the captain reported. I don’t know what they will do in this case. Things are rather upset with both Posthumus and Jordans away in addition to all of the Dyaks. If the Dyaks were here they would be better enabled to find the lost soldier I’m sure. Two of the Dyaks remaining are sick in the hospital and the other too old to do much jungle searching. We can easily spare the convicts and the canoe and the soldier for that matter for we have plenty of each. It is two o’clock as I write and no trace has been found of the soldier[,] an army sergeant who has just passed covered with mud informs me. They are searching far and wide but it is a big task. The river is falling rapidly and is almost back to the point where it was when it began to rise again. Korteman took our pictures today and Prince shaved for the occasion forgetting to take off the bottom part leaving him a good looking German affect beard. It is the end of {F1.31} the month today and it is a month for Prince and I in Albatros camp. It has past [sic] very rapidly for until the last two or three days there has been plenty to do all of the time. It is slowing down now and will be slow until we start upstairs when Doc and Leroux and Van Leeuwen and the transports return. Navy Sparks[,] the chap we call Dot[,] has regular communication with Manokwari every day. His motor is humming away as I write. Army Sparks[,] the chap we call High Tension[,] is not getting good results with his short wave set and wants to use the navy set[-]up with his short wave. Dot[,] however[,] told him no in plain language for he doesn’t want to jim [sic, = jam] up his set when it is working so nicely now. I don’t blame him either. The Navy and the Army have no love for one another.
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Tuesday June 1 1926
The first of June. One month at Albatros camp has gone to the place where all time goes. It is interesting to look over the weather chart. During the thirty one days of our first month here it rained every day but three, – May 3rd, May 7th and May 17th –. That is a pretty steady average of rainfall. Of course most of the days checked with an R had an hour or two [of] rain and then it cleared. But the rain falls almost every day. The Papuans from the village down the river visited us again today and this time they numbered four prows with five Papuans to a prow. There were many new members and of course some of the old timers came with them. They were eager for tobacco, matches and empty tins and pestered the life out of us until noon. They posed for some movies which Dick shot of them around the motor repair hut and we had them eating Pennzoil which we use in the Liberty [See Film Selection #13]. They said it was “bagoose[,]” which means good. One little fellow who looked like a Jew rubbed it between his fingers and ginned [sic, = grinned] all over. It should be a good picture. Dick also took some stills of them {F1.32} but the sun was not right to get either movies or stills of them around the camera. They left about noon and we couldn’t do anything to make them stay until the sun got around in a favorable position to shoot them around the plane or with the plane in the background. They will return again though for we have promised them tobacco and tins if they come back for more “portraits”. They enjoyed seeing the pictures which Dick and Doc took of them the last time. He printed up a few to show them and they get quite a kick out of seeing some of the members of their party. They wanted the prints. Lieut. Korteman and Dr. Hoffman asked them if they had seen the two convicts in the canoe. They said “no”. They were told that if they brought them back they would be given much tobacco but they didn’t seem interested in exerting any effort along that line for they got tobacco now for a few cocoanuts. The soldier is still among the missing. Korteman thinks it is possible that he was captured by the Papuans in the district in which we are located. They are presumed to be bad. The fact that they haven’t visited us as yet would indicate that they are not over friendly. All of the Papuans who have been here tell us that they are “not good people.” A sergeant with ten soldiers is on his way to this village now to see if they can find any traces of the lost soldier. If they do there will be trouble. One of the convicts who escaped is said not to have taken any food with him but it is possible that they have stolen some from the others. Korteman searched the shore and trees on the other bank with Dick’s glasses today. He thinks that they might be near camp. I doubt it. They are on their way to the sea I believe for it wouldn’t do them any good to hang around here. It would mean capture and punishment of twenty lashes with the ratan. One of the convicts was helping Korteman. He brought him water every day. The soldier is a goner I believe. He has either been killed by the Papuans or he fell down {F1.33} a cliff and lies dead at the bottom of it. If that is so we will probably find his body when the Dyaks return. It will be a week tomorrow since Matt and Leroux left camp to go and live with the Papuans. It has been lonesome around here with him away. The transport has been gone five days. They should be back in three more at the most. The river is continuing to drop. Some of the trees stiking [sic] out in the river which were under water when she started to rise again are sticking out afain [sic, = again] as before. It is back to the point where it left off when it started to rise. Korteman is of the opinion that the convicts might try and come back to steal the money which he has on hand to pay the soldiers every month. He has a considerable amount with him to last six months or more. Why[,] I don’t know[,] for they can’t spend any money here in New Guinea except of course they can buy gin from the magazine. So he has had a guard placed around his house and ours which is alongside of it and the guard walks back and forth all night long. These escaped convicts and the missing soldier are making things interesting at least. Otherwise there wouldn’t be much to write about for there is no activity of any kind and every day is as dull as the other. It will probably be so until Matt and Leroux and Van Leeuwen return and we start up the river. Since the soldier failed to return from his hunting trip there has been no hunting done by anybody. It has evidently scared everybody off of hunting for the time being anyway. It must not be a pleasant feeling to get lost in the jungle or even be captured by the Papuans, who have the reputation of being fond of human flesh. Dr. Van Leeuwen returned from his trip at three o’clock in the afternoon. He had made the last march which he had figured would take him two days in one day. He had made about fifteen miles inland and returned with many specimens of new plants and flowers. He reported seeing no native villages but did see {F1.34} several abandoned Papuans [sic] huts. They also ran across some remains of old pig carcasses and cassories [sic, = cassowaries]. It was hard going all of the time up hill and down. The convict carriers stood up well under their loads. It developed with Van Leeuwen’s return that one of his convict carriers was in on the plot to escape with the three convicts. There are three of them now for that number have failed to answer the roll call in the morning. This convict didn’t want to go on the trip but was compelled to. As he started down the first hill he complained to the sergeant in charge of the squad that he was weak and unable to go on. The sergeant whipped him with a ratan so that when he returned it was frayed at the edges from the lashes and the convict had no more difficulty from weakness. He continued on with the rest of the party and had no difficulty keeping up with them. He evidently was in the conspirators[’] plot to get away. If they succeed in getting to the mouth of the river and keep well on their month’s trip or to the English Border of New Guinea they will be free in that country. That is some distance, however, past Hollandia. It is the refugee’s harbor from both sides and as a result the section up there is filled with bad men of all kinds.
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Wednesday June 2 1926
It was another rainy misty morning when we awoke with the cry of “Come and get it while its hot”. The boys enjoy crying that out now and laugh after every call. A new convict, a friend of our No. 1 boy[,] joined our forces this monring [sic] in place of one of those who loafed in the woods. He wanted to change positions for he couldn’t understand us so we had another selected. This one seems to be a good boy and as he is a native friend of the good boy the two of them should get along fine together. If that is so our troubles will be over for the No. 1 boy is a good boy. We learned from Korteman this morning that the Papuans who were {F1.35} here yesterday had told a soldier that they had seen four men in a prow going down the river. That would be the three convicts [who] escaped and the soldier with them. The theory is getting stronger every day that the soldier joined forces with them for some unknown reason. They continue the search in the jungles every day despite this, however for it might be that he fell down a ravine and was killed. How long they will continue searching for him is not known. They are doing everything possible, however, to find him and if he had an accident of that kind it will soon be known for when the Dyaks return they will be able to find him if it is possible for anybody to do so. It rained pretty heavily and steadily during the monring [sic]. Dr. Van Leeuwen said that he had only one day of rain on his seven day trip. We have had much more than that. I believe it is because of the high hills all around us. Dick’s camera shutter went on the bum and he sent a wireless to Soerabaia asking for another. It is on his new camera that he purchased there. He fixed it the first time when it didn’t work as it should but a day later it developed the same symptoms again so he thought it best to wire for a new one. Just after we had finished eating our luncheon, two Dyak canoes floated down stream. It was Posthumus and the transport returning. They made goot [sic] time to return so early. The trip took but six days, four through the rapids – which is excellent time for they had the motor boats with them – one to the beginning of the rapids and not quite an entire day – a half day – coming back from Batavia Camp. They left that point at eight o’clock this morning, Captain Posthumus reported and they arrived here a little after one. With such quick time being made through the rapids by the transports it won’t be long until we are located at Head Camp with what the {F1.36} aeroplane can do to help it along. They left Jordans and six canoes at the mouth of the river to pick up Leroux and Stirling the next day or so. The two canoes which arrived were filled with Dyaks and it was good to see them again. We have missed them during their absence. Anji did not return with them but waited for Stirling and Lroux [sic] with Jordans. Van Leeuwen has just sent a wireless message to the Indian committee telling of his trip and also saying that Leroux and Stirling are visiting a native village up the river. The last sentence of the message, which incidentally was signed Explexider, a code word for Expedition Leader used by Stirling, asked for an answer relative to the change in leadership. So evidently they have not decided anything as yet. The delayed answer would make it apparent that they are discussint [sic, = discussing] the advisability of changing. It may be that they can read between the lines and see what is up. Hope they decide soon for it is unpleasant to wait and wonder what is going to happen. Will be pleased with [sic, = when] Matt returns for it has been damn lonesome without him here in camp. For obvious reasons it is hard for one man to keep up the moral[e] of the rest especially when one of the others is doing all he can to break down their moral[e]. Dr. Hoffman is especially pleased with the lack of malaria we have had so far. Just two cases in the hospital now he says. That is a good record. He hopes to keep it down. I hope that he succeeds. The transport party reported many mosquitoes at Batavia camp which is true to former predictions. That is a bad place and we won’t want to stay there any longer than is necessary. I would, however, like to make one trip up and down the rapids with the transport just to see how it is. It would furnish much to write about I know. I am hopeful of being able to do that later when more food is cached up there. Prince and Hans are busy today fixing up the floor in the front cockpit. The other flooring hasn’t stood the climate and they are putting in a heavier one so that when the {F1.37} plane is loaded all of the material will not fall through. It is another hot day. The rain has stopped and it is sultry as can be as I write. It is cloudy and when the sun disappears behind one of them it is just as warm for the humidity is great. The new boy is a good one and he gets on well. As the other boy can talk to him he knows what to do and does it quickly. It will be a change for the better I am sure. When Doc’s boy comes back he will have to serve under our No. 1 boy for he is the best of the lot. He propbably [sic] will not like that. The Bakery which has been under construction for the last several days was completed and from the looks of things it is ready for its formal openeing [sic]. The Baker, who is a typical looking baker has his wheeled stoves and everything all set up. The boys, Hans, Prince and Dick have named it the Riverside Bakery and Hans says that it must be expecting to do considerable export business for it is located right in front of the dock. We are waiting for the formal announcement of its opening and are anxious to taste of the bread. It should be good bread. Our hard bread toast which comes in large gasoline tins has tasted better from the beginning and now it is a delicacy. The same is true with the DengDeng. Dick and Prince at first wouldn’t even taste of it but now they can eat it all right. It will taste better to them as the time progresses. The monotony of having the same kind of food meal after meal is tolling and I’ve done my darnest [sic] to change it as much as possible. I still enjoy the hash and the rice as well as the other. It is not bad eating, I don’t think. I’ve run in some good oil sardines the last several days for their benefit, however, and they were enjoyed. I also enjoyed them, but Prince and Hans got the biggest kick of all out of them. Dick doesn’t like sardines. It is hard to get one thing in general that everybody likes. That’s what makes cooking hard. I’ll try cornbeef [sic] tonight. But then again Dick doesn’t like that either. {F1.38} The sergeant (navy wireless man) just past [sic, = passed] and said he had a nice trip with the transport but he added: “Jesus Christus” mosquitoes, and he shook his head and hands with disgust. Must be bad up there. They haven’t been bad here as yet but the last few nights we have noticed more of them. I had one in with me in bed last night and got him this morning after he had feasted to his heart’s content last night off my flesh and blood. I think if it continues, I’ll have to take a flash light to bed with me like Dick has been doing ever since he arrived and hunt them down every fifteen minutes during the night. That would interfere with my sleep, however, and I’d rather sleep and let them bite than keep awak [sic] worrying about them all night long. Richard is also suffering from rheumatism at night. It is from the dampness I believe. He says he wakes up with terrible pains and sometimes is unable to sleep. That’s too bad. The movies Dick shot of the Papuans were all right, a test development of the film showed. He knows his movie camera fine and dandy. With the motor boats both at Batavia Camp now it will be more difficult to take off and land with the plane but Hans and Prince say that it can be done all right. They will have to taxie [sic] right up to the boom or quite close to it and have a Dyak prow in readiness in case she should miss. A Dyak prow with many Dyaks and two soldiers has just pulled out into the river going down stream. Perhaps they are going over the convicts. Then again they might just be going to Pioneer camp where 9 cows are parked. They were paddling too swift for that, however, I believe. One cow is here and it is necessary to visit the old Pioneer Camp site to obtain food for her. Presume that they will soon be butchering the cows for meat, one by one. That will be a change in the menu which will be welcome to the boys, if I can cook it properly. Will have to tune in on the radio housewives hour and see if I can’t pick up a good recipe. {F1.39}
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Thursday June 3 1926
There was great excitement in camp for so early in the morning. We missed our convict boys but they had prepared breakfast before they disappeared. We learned that a general inspection was being held and the quarters of the convict prisoners were being searched. They were all lined up and had guards posted over them while a sergeant and an assistant went through their belongings. Food and things were missing from time to time and the escaped ones were thought to have taken food from the others. It was magazine day so it was easy to check up on those who had too much food in their bunks. The inspection lasted some hours and every boy[’]s box was gone through thoroughly. They found a good many things that they shouldn’t have and about two dozen were brought up before Captain Posthumus to explain matters. One had stolen the oil cloth covering that is a part of each soldier’s equipment. Others had various other articles. My boy was in the lot to my surprise. He had a European shirt which he had brought to me and said he had found on the river bank near where we hang our clothes to dry. I was busy at the time and as I didn’t know who it belonged to told him to keep it or do anything he wanted with it. I didn’t know then that it was against the regulations for them to have clothing of any kind. So it seemed as if he was going to get in bad. I waited close by and when his case came up he told Posthumus the facts and Posthumus brought the shirt to me and asked me about it. I explained the situation and explained that I had told him to keep it for himself for I didn’t want it and I didn’t think it belonged to any of us. He dismissed him immediately and my boy sure showed his satisfaction for he was plenty scared. It would have been unfortunate for him to get a beating over it for he has been our best worker. One by one they were judged and their stories were heard. It ended with two of them being sentenced to {F1.40} five licks each with the ratan at five o’clock that afternoon as punishment. You could notice the change in their work after that. They were all on their toes and anxious to please. They don’t like the ratan. This excitement had just subsided when a Dyak canoe pulled up with Lieutenant Jordans and Matt. It was just eleven o’clock. It sure looked good to see Matt again and he was welcomed back by all with open arms. Leroux and the baggage and the rest of the outfit were to arrive later. We had an interesting chat with Matt who had an excellent trip with Leroux visiting with the Papuans. He obtained a good collection and much scientific data of value for they were the first people who ever visited this village. They had been gone eight days living with them six days and spending a day going and coming. Matt has kept a day by day account of his trip so it will not be necessary for me to relate any of the happenings here. It will be forthcoming in his diary. We celebrated his return by opening a bottle of wine. Leroux with his convoy returned about two o’clock, and everybody was back to camp again except the lost soldier who is still being hunted for by Dyaks. They have found no trace of him, however, for all the searching parties gummed up the trail so that it is practically impossible for them to trail him now. They are doing their best, however. For five o’clock in the afternoon the whipping show was scheduled and as we have never seen anything like that we watched the operations with some interest for in this day and age of civilization whipping a man at the post is not in vogue. A huge cross was erected immediately in back of our shack and the air was surcharged with some sort of electricity. You could notice it on the convicts especially. They were going to be invited guests to this affair and a great deal of staged scenery was necessary for their benefit. For some reason or other, I too had a peculiar feeling inside of me. I can’t explain it but it was there {F1.41} nevertheless. The convicts were assembled and the sergeant gave them a lecture. It was a formal affair. Dr. Hoffman with his medical assistant was also in attendance. The ratan whips were choosen [sic] by him and scientifically sterilized. That is regulation. The assistant stood by with gauze and a container of alcohol to clens [sic] the wound I presume. The Dyaks gathered as did the rest of the expedition members. The convicts had front seats and the ceremony evidently made a deep impression on them for they sat on their haunches with a sullen expression mixed with fear, on their faces. The two convicts were brought out. The one who had stolen the oil cloth from the soldier was the first. His hands were securely bound at the wrists and lifted straight above[;] his head was secured tightly to the upper part of the cross. A cloth was tied around the upper part of his body just below the arm pits and that was wound around the upright potion [sic] of the cross. Then another cloth was wrapped around and between his thighs and that too, fastened to the cross upright. He was tied so that he couldn’t move if he was so inclined. Then the charge and the sentence passed upon him was read by the sergeant. Lieutenant Jordans, Dr. Hoffman and Captain Posthumus stood close by witnessing the affair. Captain Posthumus had his sidearm fastened to his belt. He has been wearing it around the camp the last few days. An intense silence reigned the camp as the sun sank below the jungle clad border of the camp. It was a dull sunset with the bright firey [sic] red of the sunset was missing. [sic] It was in keeping with the cold silent grey atmosphere that prevailed. The convicts sat like statues. They were motionless. The expression on their faces were frozen solid, the only movement [in the] entire camp was the twitch of a leaf or two in the tallest trees stirred by a little gust of wind now and then. After the sentence was read[,] a native soldier, tall, straight and alert selected a strip of ratan from the many Dr. Hoffman had sterilized. He felt of it with one hand on either {F1.42} end. It bent in a half circle. He was testing the whip. The ratan was a quarter of an inch in diameter. The malay soldier poised it above his head. His form was similar to a discus thrower at a field meet. In grace and in movement. Then[,] like the discus thrower or the shot putter[,] he went through his form before striking. The form consisted of swinging the ratan whip over his head twice in a circular movement of the body and arms. On the third swing he carried through and the lash descended with a snap on the buttocks of the convict. He was clothed in his regular convict uniform of brown short pants. The coat was removed. Once, twice, three, four and five times the last [sic, = lash] whipped across the convict. He was motionless. His face was sullen but no evidence of great pain was visible. No sound came from his lips. The whipping was done, completed and like the trained athletic at a track meet, the whipper stepped aside waiting for the next event. The convict mandoer unfastened the arms and untied the cloth bindings, and the whipped convict was seated in front of Captain Posthumus as the second offender was brought to the cross. He went through the same routine. Both men were small and not as physically developed as some of the others. The charge and sentence was repeated by the Dutch army sergeant. The whipper with the same grace and elegance took his station and the five lashes were administered. The last convict evidently didn’t feel it as much as the other one for he walked quickly and with a rather pleasant expression on his face to where his companion was seated. It may be that he expected more and was pleased that it was all over. The first one, however, had a bad look in his eye and sat with lowered head in front of Posthumus. A few words were spoken in Dutch and the affair was over. Prince and Dick were furious and Dick had to walk away after the first few lashes were administered. Personaly [sic] I didn’t think that either one suffered much punishment although the formality and the binding them to the cross brought back memories {F1.43} of what we have read of the old slave galley days of long ago. From a punishment standpoint it left an impression on all of the convicts. I think that they toned it down on our account. Dr. Hoffman has told me accounts of whipping in Boreno [sic] which in the telling were more gruesome than this affair. And five licks with the ratan is an easy sentence, the harder ones ranging from 20 to 40 licks. They are building a stockade around the convicts[’] quarters and they will have to pass through a gate and by a sentry at night. That will keep them from escaping. Posthumus knows how to handle them and is doing the right thing I believe. One must not forget that these men are all murderers and thieves and are recruited from the jails of Java. And so we witnessed our first thrashing scene. There will be many more of them no doubt and like everything else we will become accustomed to it. There was some discussion during the evening meal relative to the merits of such punishment. Of course everybody had different opinions.
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Friday June 4 1926
Just before the whipping scene of last evening Leroux called Matt over for a conference and this morning the details of it are available. Posthumus wants 60 more Dyaks to get the expedition to its objective, in the Nassau mountains. He has wired the war department that it is useless to try without them. Van Leeuwen wired the Indian Committee – which up to this time had not answered our leadership telegram – that the Dyaks were necessary and[,] if they were not forthcoming[,] suggested that the expedition be called home. They have evidently been worried over the delay of the committee in not answering the leadership question sooner. It has been some time since it was sent and the delay evidently appeared to them that they were deliberating in our favor. This proved not to be the case, however, for shortly afterwards Van Leeuwen appeared and said he {F1.44} had received a radio O King [sic, = okaying] the request. We don’t know whether it was received in time to ward off his other telegram or not but we are of the opinion that it came afterwards. It will be funny to see what happens now that he has the leadership and the Dyaks are not forthcoming. It was his request for withdrawal[,] it should be remembered[,] and so things stand. He did not show us the telegram he received for some reason or the other [sic], but just gave us that information. Inasmuch as we have consulted and showed him all of the telegrams that we sent and he even insisted on censoring the last one to the committee, it seems strange that he wouldn’t show us this one in which we are so vitally interested. The war department also has delayed answering all of Posthumus[’] telegrams. We sure would like to know what they sent but that is out of the realms of possibilities. If the committee had our side of it they might have decided differently. But we are interested in the success of the expedition and it is certain that under the old plan we wouldn’t get very far. Now we will have a chance of getting somewhere inside for it is their funeral is [sic, = if] they fail to do it. Before they were jealous of the credit and would do everything possible to hinder us. Now that it is up to them we should move faster and get under way, as soon as the Dyak question is settled. If they refuse additional Dyaks we will ask permission to do it ourselves and with the number of Dyaks that we are paying. We could do it in that manner easily, I believe. We had fresh bread for breakfast this morning and it was good. They have slaughtered a steer so we will have fresh meat for lunch. That should help change the menu sufficient to make it taste good. The tinned stuff has been all right but one gets the feeling at times one would like to walk and walk with a can opener in one’s hand until some one asks what it is. The steer was delivered. Five huge slices were cut off and deposited in the sizzling frying pan. Oh! Boy! how good that meat smelt [sic] while it was cooking. It was a {F1.45} new smell. It has just been a month since we have had it wafted across our nostrils and the “sniffing” was good. I believe we all ate with more relish because of those beef steaks. Naturally they didn’t compare in jiucyness [sic] and tenderness with a good steak in the states but they tasted better in some respects for we hadn’t had the opportunity of putting our teeth in fresh meat for so long that that little pleasure was enjoyed. We had fresh bread with it. Such luxury is unheard of and I don’t know how we are going to be able to stand it. We have a good bit left, however, and barring the heat of the sun it should last for several meals. Plans are being made for the plane to start work tomorrow morning. Hans and Prince are going to fly to Batavia Camp with a load of food. Hans says that with only the gas that is necessary to flay [sic, = fly] that short distance he can take off with Prince and 325 Kilos of food. He expects to make two trips in one day, and to have as much food up there as a transport can have up there in the same length of time. I think he will be able to do better than that. We are going to weigh everything that goes into the ship this time so that we will know just how much material is transported to Batavia Camp. If we can keep up with their transport in that manner we will be doing a good part of the transport work for over the rapids is the most difficult part of the entire long water line to Head Camp. It is the longest of any expedition, Leroux informs me. This evening Anji visited us for the first time in weeks. Matt and Prince entertained him most of the evening demonstrating some card tricks. He opened his eyes in amazement when Matt could tell him the card he selected when Matt didn’t have an opportunity of seeing it like he did. Matt then showed him the handkerchief trick with a match inside of it. He let Anji break the match into pieces and then unfolded the match and low [sic] and behold it was unbroken. Anji couldn’t {F1.46} understand it at all and it is not to be wondered at for many folks in the United States are dumbfounded when they observe the same trick. We had an enjoyable evening and Anji went away with the idea that Professor Stirling was an unusual man.
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Saturday June 5 1926
Everyone was up bright and early[,] for the plane was to commence its first flight today darrying [sic, = carrying] food and supplies to Batavia Camp. Breakfast over[,] Hans and Prince went to work servicing the ship. The food had been selected by Captain Posthumus and weighed 321¼ kilos. Prince was to accompany Hans on the first trip to assist in the landing at Batavia Camp. Seven soldiers, ten Dyaks and a few convicts are in charge of that camp. Soon the roar of the motor was heard throughout the camp. They were tuning her up to see how she ran. From the sound of the motor it was perfect. Everytime the aeroplane is scheduled for a flight everybody in camp drops whatever they are doing and gather[s] on the shore line to watch it take off. As both the motor boats are at Batavia Camp anchoring to the boom will be more difficult. Finally they shoved off and after taxing [sic] slowly up the stream he gave her the gun and they were off. It was a good take off and everyone was pleased. However, when he reached the turn in the river Hans turned around and came back. We looked over the mountains and it appeared that the clouds were too low for safe flying over the rapids. He landed and taxied up to the float. No assistance was necessary and the Ern was soon tied to shore alongside the float. It can be landed without the motor boats. That’s a good demonstration of handling the plane on the river. Hans knows his stuff. Something was not working quite right with the tail assembly and they had returned to see what it was all about. Flying an aeroplane over New Guinea jungles is not the easiest thing to do and one should be certain that the plane is working well in all {F1.47} respects. They were puzzled for they could find nothing wrong. Hans, however, said that everything was not right back there. We left them studying it over. In about an hour, however, while we were sitting talking things over[,] the motor hummed and again they were off without a word to anyone. They had evidently found the trouble and fixed it. They took off in the same manner and were soon in the air. They made another turn and circled the camp. Evidently they were testing it out for after they came back they continued straight up the river and turned to the left in the direction of Batavia Camp and were soon lost to our vision. It is plainly evident that outside of Leroux and possibly Hoffman and Jordans, the rest of the army outfit and the Dutch personnel are not willing to give the plane any chance at all. I honestly believe that they would chuckle with satisfaction if she cracked up. They didn’t want the plane to succeed in the first place and now that she is doing well under the most impossible conditions they are not so well pleased. If they were they would be anxious to co-operate with us. No one asks us if there is any help we need or takes an interest in the plane[’]s welfare. To get down to the plane we have to slide down the bank through the mud and everything. When we wanted coverings for the pontoons we had to ask for it [sic]. They sailed it around the Dutch Indies for more than a month on the back of the steamer before they brought it to the mouth of the river and everything looks as though they are trying to help the climate and the unfavorable conditions affect it all that they can. It can’t do this and it can’t do that is their attitude and they don’t even want to be shown. On our initiative we have done everything we could to make the place for the plane as good as possible. We got the canvas covering after asking for it. Posthumus has been an observer and like everyone else who has flown as a passenger a little he looks upon himself as an authority on aeroplanes. (We got our Dyaks to {F1.48} build the boom and the motor shop after we asked for it)[.] He can say it will do this or won’t do that, but if he were to be asked to fly it off the water without a load he couldn’t do it. Hans and Prince working against all odds are doing something with an aeroplane that has never been done before and won’t be done again for some time if it is up to the Dutch to do it. If we could get some real whole hearted co-operation[,] and with the boys[’] abilities[,] the plane would be a great help. They don’t want it to though. Of course, anything we do with it will be appreciated and recorded but they possible cannot [sic, = cannot possibly] be blamed for not getting as enthusiastic over its performance as we do. It would be a good thing if the Dutch also had a plane here. That comparison would be some comparison and it might give them a better idea what Hans is doing when he flies the Ern out of here. It is plainly evident that now is the time to do the flying before the climatic conditions beat us for the cards on that score are stacked for any length of time. I think that both Hans and Prince took a big chance on that last hop for they were determined to fly it regardless of cost to Batavia Camp after they had started. It is hard to have them cry “I told you so” when you have a little trouble. Trouble scares them easily[,] not only with a plane but with anything else. They are the greatest people in the world to tell you it can’t be done and can find more reasons why it can’t (and almost convince you) than any other people in the world. That’s why great portions of Netherlands New Guinea is [sic] unexplored and unknown. It isn’t easy to do it but it takes hardships and sacrifices in addition to just plain “guts” to get into this country. They returned from the second trip safe and sound and to save the motor as much as possible Hans landed up stream and came down with the current. Landing the other way uses the motor to taxie [sic] against the stream. Hans is not overlooking anything and is watching even the {F1.49} finest points. That will aid the life of the motor materially. In one day then we had transported 643 kilos of food to Batavia camp. That is[,] conservatively estimating, the load that three prows would take up there in five days. Five Dyaks are used to transport one prow. Two men and the plane therefore in one day did the work of fifteen Dyaks which takes them five days of hard work to accomplish. It would be possible to add 130 more kilos more to these two trips if Prince were to stay behind. However, he is necessary to assist Hans in landing and starting. It might also be possible to make three trips in one day. Everyone was elated over the performance of the plane, with the possible exception of some of the Dutch army men. Leroux said [“]fine work[”] and he meant it. The others were rather silent. We sent a message to the committee (Van Leeuwen suggested it give him credit for that) telling of what had been done. That telegram had to have a sentence added to it, however, that it was impossible for the plane to do that work to Head Camp. Otherwise their telegrams of wanting and asking for more Dyaks (60) would look rather strange. However, the telegram should impress those in Java with the fact that the plane is not broken down and cannot do anything [sic] which we are certain have been sent. If it can continue its good work – and barring accidents it can – it will transport a good amount of food to Batavia Camp in short order and will facilitate our getting inside. As I’ve said before it’s just one darn thing after another so on top of our joy over the plane’s work, we were informed that they haven’t enough gasoline and oil for the motor boats. It seems that there has been a mix up on this matter and our shirts are in the wash again. The first plan stated we would pay for the motor boat gasoline and oil[,] in addition to paying the two motor boat men. That was suggested by Leroux to make our part balance with the Dutch. {F1.50} We agreed. Then, however, after the second plan was enlarged upon and the third one greatly enlarged by the army before they would accept[,] we were given to understand that the navy would pay for it. The navy is furnishing the motor boats and oil. They brought 100 cases of gasoline with them and some oil. However, whoever had charge of looking after that detail fell down. If we were to do it it is strange that they would bring 100 cases of gasoline in the first place. Now there isn’t enough gasoline for the motor boats and oil to get the transports to Motor Camp before the Albatros can arrive. We are helping out with our oil and our gas for we have plenty of gas and believe we will have enough oil to spare them. Hans says that the motors in the boats (they are U.S. marine engines Kermath’s made in Detroit) are rigged up to burn kerosine. They have no kerosine. Our gas will burn in their motors but it won’t last long or go far. It is still in the air, but the good part of it is that we can furnish enough to get the transports there. It appears that we are not the only ones who have made mistakes. It is our first trip here. They have had motor boats here many times before and they don’t even know how much oil they burn. They also overestimated the load of the canoes and goodness knows they have been using canoe transports here for many many years. The last expedition over much of the same territory spent 2½ years getting into the Swartz Valley. With all that experience they surely aught to know what a canoe will carry. I told Van Leeuwen about the telegram I had received from the Postmaster and showed it to both him and Posthumus. Posthumus said that he hadn’t received any notification that they had decided that I could send Press telegrams and have them paid for upon delivery at Weltevreden. It is strange that that one telegram should have been lost in transit especially as the operators get an O.K. from the receiver before they sign off. They don’t just shoot them out blindly in the air. They are numbered and if the number isn’t right {F1.51} the operator asks the sender about it. Van Leeuwen is agreeable to me sending press telegrams but as long as I can send the details to the Indian committee in English as I have been doing it goes that way without charge and is available to the press also. It is a difficult problem for if I send something it will be in the Java press before the committee gets it and that isn’t polite either, on ordinary routine I’ll do it that way. However, when something big develops, I’ll send it direct so I know for sure that the A.P. in New York gets it. So far everything has gone through the way I want it. It is just the plain details for in an official report one can’t put the color into it. However, that will be done, I am confident[,] when it gets in the newspaper man’s hands. Anji visited us again and talked about the aeroplane. All of the Dyaks are enthused over the two trips, and the big load that it carries. Tomalinda[,] the other Dyaks[’] chieftain, on the return of the plane the second time asked if he could fly sometime. Posthumus was sitting there. He asked me so I couldn’t understand him and asked Posthumus what he said. Posthumus said he wanted to know if he could fly with the plane. I told the Dyak chief he would have to ask permission of Posthumus and the Birdman which is Hans. He had probably been told in the past about the danger of the plane and the probability of its falling but the demonstration of today sold him on it and he wanted to try it too. The Captain didn’t look particularly pleased with his actions. Anji and his Dyaks are closer to us while the other Dyak leader has been lined up with Posthumus[,] having been with him in Boreno [sic]. He is always ready to help and I believe like all of the Dyaks he has horse sense enough to use his own judgment of the plane and not be influenced by those who try to influence him against it. They are thinkers, these Dyaks[,] and there is no getting away from that. While Anji was visiting us Tomalinda was seated with the Captain and was engaged in a long conversation. What was going on of course we {F1.52} could not even guess. The discussion of the experiences and thrills on the trips was interesting in the evening. On the second trip, Hans and Prince had cleared over the large range beyond which lies Batavia Camp. As they did so, Hans cut the motor and glided down for he knew the layout and it wasn’t necessary to circle. Consequently they glided in noiselessly and came upon a Papuan canoe in the river. When they saw the plane heading for them the last man stood up and paddled for all he was worth and then quickly one by one the others followed suit. Prince and Hans had a large laugh for they paddled as they probably have never paddled before. They are lazy and do not exert themselves unless they have to. It must have been amusing. When they taxied up to the bank at the camp the sergeant and 12 men were there to help them unload the food. The first time he sent one man believing there couldn’t be over a couple of tins at the most. They gasped with surprise when they saw Hans pull out 24 tins and two packages which is the regular load. Most of it is rice. The second trip had a tin of fresh bread from the bakery and the men were pleased with it. They also brought back a note to Posthumus, which Prince delivered in military fashion. Now that it is all over, it is will [sic, = well] to analize [sic] the performance. The Ern carried on one trip a useful load of 800 pounds of food, and counting Prince. In addition to this she had tacked on to her 800 pounds of pontoons, 450 pounds of gasoline (75 gallons enough for three hours) making a total load of 2,050 pounds exclusive of the Pilot. Exclusive of the gasoline[,] the total load carried was 1600 pounds. That is not a bad figure when one is looking over loads carried in the United States with wheels. It must not be overlooked that this is being done in New Guinea, off fresh water, light air conditions, with practically no lift and hills and jungles on all sides. In Java they discount a plane’s performance 15 per cent {F1.53} because of climatic conditions in the Indies.
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Sunday June 6th 1926
Jordans and the transport left early this morning. They had nine canoes loaded with food. Without the motor boats they will make faster time through the rapids. Hans and Prince were busy on the motor for they were to continue their work of transporting food even though it was Sunday. It was a nice day again for a change. After the ship had been serviced and gassed, she was loaded with the customary 321½ kilos of food. It gives one quite a kick to see them putting all that load into an aeroplane here on the Mamberamo. The space from the shore does not look large, and it is amusing to see the soldiers, convicts and the Dyaks stand and look in amazement (the Dutch staff also) as they start a fire line procession of tins full of rice down the bank[;] Hans loads while Prince hands it up to him. Finally it is all in and the work of starting the motor commences. That is a job at times for when the Liberty is hot[,] as it is out in the sun[,] it is hard to start. Prince takes a whack at it first and then comes Dick and then Doc when the occasion requires. If it fails to start then Hans takes a turn or two at it and it starts. It doesn’t always do that but the first trip today it did. The Ern must be getting tired of carrying all that load over the mountains. I don’t blame her in a way for she sure is loaded to the limits. The motor kicks over and she is off. Hans taxies downstream[,] warming her up in the meantime. He turns and is off against the current. The roar of the motor and the spray from the prop and the pontoons is old stuff to the inhabitants of the camp now but they all stand by to watch. She took off nicely and we watch[ed] her climb into the heavens. It is gained bit by bit and soon they are high enough to turn and are off on their long dangerous journey. We watch them until they are lost from sight. The plane surely looks {F1.54} well in the air. As I stand and watch it flying over these dense jungled [sic] clad mountains around us in all directions, I have a pecular [sic] feeling. It is a feeling of satisfaction for the Ern is doing wonders. It is flying with train[-]like or mail schedule regularity carrying food over a distance that takes days of many men’s effort against swift mountain stream which comes dashing over the rocks in the mountain gorge. When the necessary time has elapsed – it is thirty five minutes up and approximately 35 minutes to return – we start watching for her in the skies. The skies are always full of low hanging white clouds. It is only occasionally that one can see a clear blue spot now and then. Finally it is the hum of the motor that attracts us and looking up we see her soaring through the air. Sometimes we can pick her out before we can hear the motor roar. She sails smoothly and swiftly. Hans “cuts the gun” and she floats gently down the river and is soon landed in the mud banks. Luncheon of rise [sic, = rice], Deng Deng (dried Meat) and perhaps hash and tea follows. They tell of what they saw. After lunch it is another trip and the plane is serviced and gassed and soon is on its way with another similar load. The Batavia Express is what we call her now. The sergeant sends back a message to the Captain or the Captain sends a message to the sergeant. This time he wanted two shovels and they [are] made a part of the load. A package of fresh baked break [sic, = bread] is also a part of the supplies and it is steaming hot for it has just been taken from the Army Bakery. They are off a second time and are soon lost to vision. I get a kick out of every flight. Hans and Prince and the Ern are performing wonders. They are flying here with all the odds against them and are putting it over big. We figure out the time they should return and when it comes our eyes are trained in that direction. Here she comes again. Her silver wings and the floats hanging on beneath make a striking contrast against the clouds[,]{F1.55} white or black. She floats gracefully to the water[,] skims along and then taxies for the shore. Another trip is completed. That was the fourth in two days. They saw the transports fighting their way up the rapids and Prince shot some good pictures of it. It must be a funny feeling to the Dyaks[,] who are working with all of the skill and muscles[,] to see this huge bird soar over their heads and quickly pass from sight. They have been paddling strong for two days and this aeroplane has gone over their heads with a roar four times. Prince and Hans waved to them from the air and they waved in return. The pile of food stuffs at Batavia camp which the Ern is depositing every trip is increasing. It is almost as large as that deposited by the first canoe transport. Sunday makes no difference to the boys. It is the same as the rest of the days here in New Guinea. Food and medicines are needed above before we can move up there safely and that is what they are doing two times a day. The Bakery man is a fine fellow. He is a jack of all trades and weighs in the load of food for the plane. He is a hard worker and willing. Been in the army 18 years and is to retire when he gets back to Java. Is the most energetic Dutchman we have seen in the army. If they were all as energetic as he this expedition would go fast and in short time. Sunday evening was the clearest evening we have seen here. The night was black without a moon but the sky was full of stars. Not a cloud in the sky and it was delightful to sit in front of our house on the river bank and visit with the Papuans who came just before dusk. They were the friendly ones which Matt and Leroux visited and they were evidently returning their call for they brought many new folks along with them, including three small children. One of them was particularly attached to Matt and he greeted him with a flow of language that would have put Bryan to shame from an eloquence standpoint, if it could have been understood. One could see the friendly {F1.56} feeling they had for him [and] of course it was the result of their visit. Another one, we called him “Red” because of his red hair[,] was also profuse in his greeting. He was the champion talker[,] however. He seems to start off with twenty words all at once and then cuts them off as though some one had clapped a hand over his mouth before he had finished talking. It was amusing to listen to him although it was not pleasant to have him close to you, for his entire body, arms and legs and well as face and hands were covered with scabs. Like a good many of the others[,] he has scroufla [sic, = scrofula]. They visited all over the camp and naturally begged continuously for tobacco, rice and anything they could put in their net[-]like bags. We had to chase them away so we could eat supper. Afterwards, however, when we were comfortably seated in front of the house[,] smoking and enjoying the evening and stars[,] they returned and sat around on the ground in front of us. Of course, we had to produce tobacco so they could smoke also. The military guard which has been placed in front of the quarters stood close by and observed them. They didn’t like it and plainly showed their fear. One of them mentioned it several times. Later Posthumus told them they had put that soldier on duty to guard them against attack from their hated enemies, the Boramese. Still they were uneasy. They didn’t like the business[-]like appearance of the gun he had strapped over his shoulder. They soon yawned and departed for their beds on the ground in front of Leroux’[s] house. It was too nice an evening to go to bed so we sat out and studied the stars shining all above us. It was the first time we had an opportunity of studying them since we arrived. The southern cross was plainly visible in the south and the big dipper lined up with it just above the jungle on the north. We observed many falling stars – five or six all told – as they shot through the atmosphere. Some were quite distinct. {F1.57}
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Monday June 7 1926
The Batavia Express was scheduled for its regular morning flight to Batavia Camp and the program called for me to accompany it as a passenger. It will be my first aeroplane flight in Dutch New Guinea and I was anxious to see how this country looked from the air. I had a fair idea from the map and from what I could see from the boat on the river and from our selected camp spot here in the hills sixty some miles in land [sic]. My equipment consisted of my 45 side arm[,] the water bottle (two essential traveling companions in New Guinea) and Matt’s brown camera in case of emergency pictures. It was a nice day. We took off with the stream because there was a little wind blowing in that direction. It was the first wind, and the take off was splendid because of it. We were off with a roar and soon above the tree tops. It was well we had a wind for taking off in that direction is not so good because the runway is not as long in that direction. The river makes a bend just below Pioneer Camp and the trees and a large hill immediately back of the shore line make it dangerous should the motor quit at that point. As soon as we were high enough to make the turn Hans did so and we were over the jungles with the river on the left of us. The Ern climbed well because of the wind, and it didn’t take us long even with our heavy load to get a thousand feet or more before we were over Havic [sic] Island. It was a sensational view that spread out before us. In every direction one could see the jungle clad hills and mountains. The green folliage [sic] of the trees gives one a peculiar feeling. The mountains of course give you the impression of their massiveness but the jungle covering which spreads over them without exception gives one the impression of a soft velvet carpet. Albatros Camp sticks out like a sore thumb and looks very impressive. It is the only clear spot with the exception of old Pioneer Camp site across the river. That, too, sticks out {F1.58} prominently. The clouds were very low in all directions and hung just over the peaks and ridges. Here and there between the hills and mountains one could see patches of clouds in the tree tops. It appeared as though some one had thrown a good shaving lather from the brush touching those spots here and there. The Liberty hummed along nicely. That is wonderful music. In front of me I had rice tins and food of all kinds. The cockpit was loaded fully and there was not room for another can of milk. We had 321½ kilos and with my 82 or 83 kilos (a kilos ia [sic, = kilo is] 2.2 pounds) in addition to the gasoline, Hans, the floats and the ern, the Liberty was using all of her 400 horses. It was just a little bumpy. As we passed over that soft appearing jungle carpet of trees, large white cockadoos [sic], evidently freightened [sic] by the roar of the motor would fly from their perches in the trees. Sometimes there would be just three or four. Then again a dozen or more. They were very noticeable with their flowless [sic, = flawless] white colot [sic, = color] against the bright green of the trees. We were headed towards the rapids and Batavia Camp some fifty miles away. Stretched out before us was the winding Mamberno [sic, = Mamberamo] river and looking ahead I could see the river narrow as it came through the gorge in the Van reese [sic, = van Rees] mountains. An air view of New Guinea impresses you immediately of the vastness of the island, the impassability of the jungle and the large mountain barriers which, like a fortress wall[,] stretches [sic] in all directions. The peaks of the Van reese [sic] mountains are not so high (sone [sic] two thousand feet in places[)] but they stand up prominently. They seem to penetration and exploration.[sic] They even defy penetration of the interior by air for they have as their assistants the low hanging clouds which just graze their peaks and makes [sic] flying not only difficult but dangerous. I look down at the Mamberamo and it looks very small from our height of two thousand feet. It is our only place to land should the motor stop and as one gazes at it over the edge of the pontoon one is not impressed {F1.59} with the safety of such a forced landing. Somewhat larger than the average road in the states[,] it has the appearance of a ribbon and a small one at that with all the vastness of the mountains and the jungles about us. Up ahead it narrows until it is pencil[-]like in its dimensions as it winds and turns. The Van reese [sic, = van Rees] mountains are on all sides of us now and the low hanging clouds on the peaks does [sic] not look as pretty as it really appears to be from a picture standpoint. Above us the clouds are also close. If we were to climb a hundred feet we would be in them. Hans is flying just beneath a thick layer. We come to the rapids. The first is the Marine falls. The river is exceedingly narrow and glancing down one can plainly see the huge boulders and islands about which the water is whirling in good sized whirlpools. The motor hums nicely and we think of how it has hummed in that manner [at] other times when we were depending upon it. Here is a real test though for a forced landing would mean – perhaps not certain death – but the loss of the Ern. Here and there on the river are native villages. One in particular is right on a point of the river and stands out prominently. Hans taps me on the head and points it out. We are too high to see the Papuans but they are there. On the right and on a smaller river flowing into the Mamberno [sic, = Mamberamo] somewhat inland is another village. It is a larger one and the people there are reputed to be head hunters. We soon leave the Marine falls behind and are in the center of the mountain peaks. On all sides of us are ragged peaks and in many instances the cold looking bare rock glares down at us. There have been many land slides. We are right over the river. In front of us, in back of us, in fact all around us are the Van Reese mountains. We are skimming along just beneath the clouds. The view ahead is startling. It is raining heavily a little to the right and in just one spot. Now and then we pass through a cloud on one side and can’t see anything. {F1.60} We look out the other side and see the bare rock patches just above our wing tip. We look down to the river. We are over the Eddy falls. The water is churning with foam. We look for the canoe transport but can’t see them as yet. Ahead, it looks miles and miles ahead, we see six or seven more ranges and then the lake plain is visible in spots. It looks like a long way. We have been in the air fifteen minutes. Eddy falls are the worst of the tree rapids | | |